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Mt. Disappointment 50K 2009 Notes

first published August 8, 2009 & last updated March 3, 2023 Gary Valle

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Strawberry Spring, about 1.25 mile from Lawlor Saddle (2005)

Strawberry Spring, about 1.25 mile from Lawlor Saddle

Note: The Mt. Disappointment Endurance Run is now the Angeles National Forest Trail Race.

Race day dawned clear, cool and breezy — nearly perfect conditions for the start of the 2009 Mt. Disappointment 50K and 50 mile Endurance Runs.

This was the 5th edition of the 50K, a classic race that starts and ends on the summit of Mt. Wilson, and features a demanding mix of technical single track trail, dirt fire roads, and the Mt. Wilson Rd. With over 5000′ of legit gain and loss, and a climb to the finish of 2600′, it is a course that many underestimate. If the 50K is difficult, the 50 mile is difficult squared. In addition to the final arduous climb to the finish, the 50 mile run features a brutally exposed 6 mile ascent to Shortcut saddle that most do during the hottest part of the day.

My goals for this year’s 50K were to a) complete it, b) have fun!, and c) try to get my time back down under 7 hours. I’d been working some on improving my running technique. Would it make any difference?

Following are some notes from this year’s race. This year I’ve used the GPS distance as calculated by SportTracks, rather than the official aid station distances. These distances are approximate. The times between aid stations should be relatively accurate, but may differ from the official times.

Mile 0 to 4.7 (Red Box Aid #1)

As a result of the Mt. Lowe Fire Road closure, instead of turning at Eaton Saddle and climbing up and over the shoulder of Mt. Disappointment, the first leg of the race followed (paved) Mt. Wilson Rd. all the way down to Red Box. According to the topo map, this reduces the total elevation gain by about 700′ — from about 5800′ to 5100′. Comparing GPS traces from last year and this year, it looks like the 2009 course is about 0.8 mile shorter — 5.5 miles vs. 4.7 miles.

How much would the change in course effect times? And, how do you compare a 2008 time to 2009 time? And, what time on this course would be (more or less) equivalent to my goal of finishing in under 7 hours on the standard course?

In my case, I’ve run the 50K four times before, so I know my average time down to Red Box is about 60 minutes. This year the split was 20 minutes faster. I figure about 16-17 minutes of that is due to the difference in courses, This is close to what the 8:1 Naismith’s Rule would predict. Assuming an 8.5 min/mile pace on the flat, the 700′ climb should add about 9 minutes, and the additional 0.8 mile should add about 7 minutes. So, subtracting 16 minutes from 7:00 hours my new time goal was 6:44.

I might have run this leg a little too fast — I did feel some tightness in my quads at Red Box — but the long, fast downhill on pavement was an offer I couldn’t refuse.

2007: 59 min 2008: 66 min 2009: 40 min

Mile 4.7 to 10.2 (Clear Creek Aid #2)

Behind me, I heard the surprisingly loud, “thunk!”of the toe of a running shoe catching on a rock, and then a grunt. Time expanded as I turned, and I watched in slow motion as a runner gracefully flew through the air, tucked, rolled, and in a backlit cloud of swirling dust, slid 50 feet down the steep, pine needle covered slope.

Maybe because it’s downhill and in shade, I’ve seen a number of runners trip on this section of the course, but this fall took the Gold. The good news was the runner was OK.

Although this was probably the fastest I’ve done this leg, it didn’t feel that way. I wasn’t holding back, but wasn’t pushing the pace either.

2007: 58 min 2008: 63 min 2009: 56 min

Mile 10.2 to 12.7 (Josephine Aid #2.5)

OK, OK, I know better than to push the climb up the Josephine Fire Road too hard. To this point, I was hanging with a some runners that would eventually finish the 50K in the 6:00-6:15 range. Didn’t know that at the time, and in my enthusiasm passed them on the hill. Bad move.

2007: 43 min 2008: 43 min 2009: 38 min

Mile 12.7 to 20.5 (Red Box Aid #3)

I coughed and sputtered after accidentally inhaling some of the Heed I was trying to drink. Jimmy Dean Freeman was cracking me up telling stories about some recent ultras.

There are two legs of the course where training pays big dividends, and this is one of them. Jimmy Dean and his wife, Kate, were running free and easy. It didn’t take long and they started to pull away. Runners trained for longer distances seem to have a much better time of it on this part of the course.

Even on a coolish day like today, the climb to Lawlor Saddle was on the warm side, and I found myself walking stretches that with just a little more “umph” I could have been running. For a while, I ran with a runner, who — if I heard correctly — warmed up for the Mt. Disappointment 50 miler by doing an Ironman Tri the previous weekend!

Although my time from Clear Creek to Red Box was 10 minutes faster than last year, I think my overall time would have been faster if I had taken it easier on the Josephine climb.

2007: 129 min 2008: 103 min 2009: 98 min

Mile 20.5 to 25.7 (West Fork Aid #4)

I don’t know what makes this leg so difficult, but every year it’s a tough one for me. Fresh, it would be a run in the park. After 21 miles of this race, and 4000′ of elevation loss, “it ain’t so easy anymore.” Some years there is water in the creeks that cross road, and a cap-full of water over the head helps. Not this year.

Lynn Longan, another one of the runners I’d passed on the climb up to the Josephine aid station, caught up to me a little before the West Fork aid station. In addition to two 50 milers earlier in the year, she had run the TRT 50 mile three weeks ago, and the Miwok 100K before that. I was about to learn what running longer can do for you.

2007: 66 min 2008: 61 min 2009: 57 min

Mile 25.7 to 31.1 (Finish on Mt. Wilson)

I left the aid station a little ahead of Lynn, but it wasn’t long and I heard footsteps coming up behind me. Looking strong, she cruised past and was soon out of sight.

I was worked. I could run some on the flat, but uphill running was not going to happen. Then there the water issue. Two bottles is never enough for me on the Kenyon DeVore climb. I knew that going in, and should have taken the time at the West Fork aid station to drink more water and defizzed cola. The plan had been to refill at a creek crossing a couple of miles up the trail. But there was a potential problem — this year almost all of the small creeks had been dry!

The creek wasn’t dry, but it wasn’t all that wet either. The flow was marginal and there was a lot of debris in water. But I had refilled here several times before, so maybe it would be OK. I’d already gone through my first bottle, and had started on the second, and there was still 3.5 miles and 1700 feet of climb to go. I decided I would only drink it if I had to. Without inspecting the source too carefully, I filled the bottle and hurried back to the trail. While I had been busy getting water, two runners had run past.

The Kenyon DeVore trail is cruel. Glimpses of the antennas on Mt. Wilson look tantalizingly close, but the trail climbs, turns, and then climbs some more. I drank all of the creek water and was happy to have it. Even with the extra water, my legs were getting crampy, and I just hoped I could get to the finish without a full-on bout of adductor and hamstring cramps.

2007: 112 min 2008: 100 min 2009: 104 min

Time in… 6 hours 34 minutes — with an average pace more than a minute per mile faster than last year, and ahead of my adjusted time goal of 6:44.

Here’s an elevation profile, and a Cesium browser View of a GPS trace of the course, with mile splits generated by SportTracks. Click on the red icon for the split time. The 2009 course is the yellow trace, and the 2005-2008 course is the red trace.

As always the event was superbly conducted by race director Gary Hilliard, the Mt. Disappointment 50/50 Staff, and a extraordinary group of friends and volunteers. Thank you!

Google search: $g(Mt. Disappointment 50K), $g(trail running)

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Bear Cubs on the South Fork Trail

first published July 26, 2009 & last updated July 8, 2023 Gary Valle

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Bear cub clinging to a tree on the South Fork Trail in the San Gabriel Mountains.

The thing about a dangerous situation is that you almost never see it coming. In an instant a pleasant adventure can turn really serious. We were in the San Gabriel Mountains about 2 miles down the little used South Fork Trail, and 20 minutes from Islip Saddle, when my running partner shouted, “Do you see that!”

From the tone of her voice I knew it was something serious. My first thought was a mountain lion, but then I saw it — a bear cub clinging to a tree on the trail ahead. Sh*&! How many times had I told friends that I didn’t worry too much about black bears, “unless, of course, it’s a mother with her cubs.”

Where was Mom? She had heard us coming down the trail, but apparently only had enough time to send her cub up the tree, and take cover. Not good, and potentially very dangerous. We couldn’t see Mom, we couldn’t hear Mom, but knew she was nearby. Most likely she was in the thick brush on the steep slope below the trail.

Suddenly, the cub scurried higher in the tree, its long claws digging noisily into the bark of the tree. That’s when we saw that there were two cubs! The noise startled me, and I wondered if Mom — wherever she was — would react.

After a quick assessment, we walked quietly by the tree, and in a second or two started to jog. In a matter of seconds we were out of danger. It was fortunate that there were two of us and we were relatively noisy. A solo runner would have almost certainly surprised the mother with her cubs.

After a time the adrenalin subsided, and the rest of the run went very well. Temps were not quite as hot as expected on the low part of the course, and were pleasantly cool on Mt. Baden-Powell. Both the South Fork Trail and Manzanita Trail had been recently maintained. Some slides and washouts remain, but these are an integral part of the adventure and character of this trail run.

Update October 8, 2009. Here’s a video of the cubs and Mom taken a couple of months after our encounter. The cubs have grown! The video is from Johanna Turner’s YouTube Channel, which has fascinating footage of mountain lions, bears, deer, bobcats, foxes and other animals found in the mountains near Los Angeles.

More info about the approximately 23.5 mile course can be found in the post Islip Saddle – Mt. Baden-Powell South Fork Loop.

Cool Running in Southern California

published June 21, 2009 Gary Valle

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Dave Burke cruising down a nice section of the PCT between Cloudburst Summit and Cooper Canyon.

Last year on this date, Southern California was in the middle of a heatwave. On June 20, 2008, Los Angeles Pierce College in Woodland Hills reached a record-setting high of 111°F, and on June 21 the temp reached 108°F!

Not so this June! So far this month, Downtown Los Angeles has not had a day when the average temperature was above normal. And it’s not only the low elevation stations that have been cool. Several times this month the overnight low at the Big Pines RAWS, near Wrightwood in the San Gabriel Mountains, has dropped into the thirties, and daytime temps have averaged more than 10 degrees below normal.

This translates to great running weather in Southern California, and near perfect weather for trail running in the San Gabriel Mountains. Today, did the Three Points – Buckhorn loop, along with a short detour up to the summit of Waterman Mountain. The route worked out to about 23 miles with a reality-checked elevation gain/loss of about 3800′. Here’s a Cesium browser View of a GPS trace of the run.

The title photo is of Dave Burke, cruising down a nice section of the PCT between Cloudburst Summit and Cooper Canyon.

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PCT from Inspiration Point to Islip Saddle

published June 14, 2009 Gary Valle

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View from near the summit of Mt. Baden-Powell.

Overnight the lows on the high peaks had dipped into the 30’s, and today the high temps would be 15-20 degrees below normal. If I could have ordered the perfect mix of temperature, clouds and sun for running in the Angeles high country, it would be difficult to top the weather this weekend and last.

Now that Hwy 2 was open between Islip Saddle and Vincent Gap, and we could do a car shuttle, Miklos, Krisztina and I had decided to run from Inspiration Point to Islip Saddle on the PCT. Starting at Inspiration Point instead of Vincent Gap adds about 4.5 miles to the run, but the miles are relatively easy, and the stretch is a good warmup for the 2800 ft. climb up Mt. Baden-Powell.

Here’s a Cesium browser View of a GPS trace of our approximately 18 mile route. We wandered down the south ridge of Mt. Baden-Powell, so this is a little longer than the usual route. The elevation gain was about 3300 ft., with an elevation loss of about 4000 ft. Continuing over Mt. Williamson to Eagle’s Roost would add about 4 miles and 1400 ft. of elevation gain.

Note: The speck in the summit photo is one of several violet-green swallows working lift and zooming along the top of southeast face.

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Up & Down Mt. Baldy’s South Ridge

first published June 7, 2009 & last updated December 22, 2023 Gary Valle

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Hikers above the clouds on Mt. Baldy's South Ridge. — Mt. Baldy’s South Ridge.

One, two, ten…
Will the switchbacks ever end?

I can’t think of a tougher stretch of trail in the San Gabriel Mountains. From Mt. Baldy Village, the Bear Canyon/Old Mt. Baldy Trail climbs 5800′ in 6.7 miles to the 10,064′ summit of Mt. Baldy (Mt. San Antonio). The route is as rewarding as it is difficult, with inspiring views and interesting terrain.

I had hoped for some remnant clouds from Friday’s storms, but didn’t expect to be using my windshield wipers driving to the trailhead. The dark gray clouds piled against the mountains had a scuddy, stormy look, and I had a difficult time convincing myself that it was just a deep marine layer. But the sun was shining when I parked at the bottom of Bear Canyon Rd. and began to walk up the steep, cabin-lined street.

Clouds pushing up San Antonio Canyon and the southeastern slopes of Mt. Baldy.

The last time I had been on the trail was July 2004, during the Baldy Peaks 50K. That day we started at the parking lot at Icehouse Canyon, and over the course of the race climbed Mt. Baldy twice. The first time from the Village, and the second time from Manker Flats. Today I wasn’t in a race, and would be completely satisfied to climb Mt. Baldy just once.

Running up a moderate section of trail below Bear Flat, I tried to figure out the last time I had run down the Bear Canyon Trail. Sometime before the Baldy Peaks race. I wasn’t sure how long it had been, but long enough to forget how grueling steep downhill can be.

My thoughts are interrupted by a pair of hikers coming down the trail. I ask how they’re doing, and am surprised to hear, “not so good.” They look disappointed and tired, and anxious to get down to the car. I wonder if one of them is ill, or if they just underestimated the difficulty of the trail.

A half-mile later I’m crossing the creek at Bear Flat (~5500′). This is where the fun begins. Here the trail switchbacks up a steep east-southeast facing chaparral slope to Mt. Baldy’s South Ridge, gaining about 1500′ in one mile. On a warm day it can be hellish. On a cool day it isn’t easy. Today it is cool. The cloud layer has continued to crawl up the mountain, and it envelops me as I start up the switchbacks.

A little more than a year ago, these slopes were burned in the 2008 Bighorn Fire. I had expected to see black, burned and barren chaparral in the initial stage of recovery, but instead there is substantial growth, comparable to 2-3 years of recovery in chaparral at a lower elevation.

Video snapshot from Mt. Baldy's South Ridge. — Click for video snapshot from Mt. Baldy’s South Ridge.

At an elevation of about 7000′, I climb out of the clouds and into the sun. What a day! Benign clouds lap at the mountainside, enhancing already dramatic views. Between 7000′ and 9000′, I encounter several hikers and briefly chat with one veteran hiker, who tells me this is his friend’s intro to hiking! It is a busy day for this trail, and I’m guessing I’ll see more hikers when I descend.

Above 9000′ the open forest of Jeffrey, Sugar and Lodgepole pine becomes more sparse and stunted. The route feels more alpine and climbs onto the rocky crest of an exposed ridge (HD Video Snapshot). A little higher, a large patch of snow accentuates the “you’re getting near tree line” feeling.

Hiker leaving the summit of Mt. Baldy, and starting the descent of the Ski Hut trail.

Approaching Baldy’s summit, I’m surprised to see a wispy cloud had also ascended the peak and is waiting for me to catch up. On top there seems to be a mix of young and old, veterans and first-timers, excitement and exhaustion. After a few minutes on the summit, I run over to West Baldy. Then it is gravity’s turn, and I take the first steps down the slope.

The descent is just as extraordinary as the ascent, with far-reaching mountain views over a sea of clouds. On an exposed section of the ridge at about the 8500′ I happen on a Sugar pine with a spiral scar from a lightning strike. Such trees are disturbingly common. There is a Jeffrey pine at about the same elevation on Mt. Baldy’s North Backbone Trail with a similar lightning scar.

At around 7500′, I descend into the clouds. The change from blue to gray does not carry with it the usual malaise. Wisps of warm cloud thread softly through the pines and a solitary deer walks silently through the dream-like scene (Video snapshot).

One, two, ten… Will the switchbacks ever end? Finally, through the trees I see the brilliant green of the ferns at Bear Flat. Running becomes easier. I pick up the pace, and in a few minutes turn onto the asphalt of Bear Canyon road.

Here is an interactive, 3D terrain view of a GPS trace of my route on the Mt. Baldy’s South Ridge on the Bear Canyon/Old Mt. Baldy Trail. The map can be zoomed, tilted, rotated, and panned using the navigation control on the right. Track and placename locations are approximate and subject to errors. Snow, ice, poor weather, and other conditions may make this route unsuitable for this activity.

Some related posts: Mt. Baldy Runner, Lightning Tree

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Islip Saddle – Mt. Baden-Powell Out & Back

first published May 24, 2009 & last updated April 8, 2017 Gary Valle

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Snowbush on the Pacific Crest Trail near Islip Saddle.

Snowbush on the Pacific Crest Trail near Islip Saddle

Below, the throaty rumble of an almost continuous stream of motorcycles echoes through the canyons. Closed by storm damage since the Winter of 2005, Highway 2 from Islip Saddle to Vincent Gap is open again.

It is also busy on the Pacific Crest Trail. I’m southbound on the PCT, and some of the hikers I’ve talked to are doing the route I’m doing — an out and back from Islip Saddle (6650′) to Mt. Baden-Powell (9,399′). At least one group has set up a car shuttle, and will descend to Vincent Gap after climbing Baden-Powell.

Northbound on the PCT, there has been a mix of youth groups returning to Islip Saddle after a night under the stars, and PCTers on their way to Canada. Nearly 400 miles into their 2650 mile trek, the PCTers look great, and if their broad smiles are any indication, they are enjoying life on the trail.

Whether hiking a couple of miles, or a couple thousand miles, it is great day to be outdoors. The weather is cool, and there is not a cloud in the sky. There are patches of snow here and there, and even some snow on the trail. My legs feel good, and I feel good.

Today I decided to keep things simple. Rather than climb Mt. Islip and other peaks along the way, I’m doing a basic out and back route to Baden-Powell. Even so, it’s no cakewalk. A quick calculation using the topo map gives an honest elevation gain/loss of at least 3600 ft.

Earlier, as I worked my way above Windy Gap, I was surprised to feel and then hear a distant, powerful, rumbling ka-boom! It wasn’t a motorcycle, or thunder — it was Space Shuttle Atlantis landing at Edwards!

With a few stops, and a mix of hiking and running, it takes me about 2.5 hours to get to Baden-Powell. No one is on the summit. Across Vincent Gulch, Mt. Baldy (10,064′) looms in the haze. A few ribbons of snow embellish its north face.

I grab a Clif Bar from my pack, and walk along the ridge, looking at the weather worn trees. After a few minutes, I return to the summit and then descend to the Wally Waldron Tree. For an impulsive moment I briefly debate continuing down to Vincent Gap and doing the South Fork loop. It would “only” be about 7 miles longer, and I’d never done the loop counterclockwise… but instead I hang a left onto the PCT and take the first strides toward Islip Saddle. Maybe next time.

Here’s a Cesium browser View of a GPS trace of the approximately 16.5 mile route.

Some related posts: San Gabriels High Five, Snowless San Gabriels

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