Doveweed (Croton setiger) on Lasky Mesa in Upper Las Virgenes Canyon Open Space Preserve (Ahmanson Ranch).
Despite it’s weed-like appearance, doveweed is native to California. The plant is also known as turkey mullein.
Related post: Satwiwa Doveweed
Category Archives: landscape
A Morning Thunderstorm, Debris-Covered Trail, Fast-Paced Fire Road, and Tough Climb on the ANFTR 25K Course!
Update October 2, 2024. I ran the ANFTR 25K Course on Sunday and the cuttings on the Mt. Disappointment/Bill Riley Trail had been removed. The trail was clear and back to normal!
As I drove east on the 210 Freeway, a long bolt of lightning erupted from high in the clouds and pierced the valley below. The thunderstorm near Mt. Lukens looked spectacular. It was backlit by the rising sun, and intermittent lightning flashed against its dark gray clouds.
Theoretically, I was headed to Mt. Wilson. It was July. It was hot. It was time to get on the ANFTR/Mt. Disappointment race course! But was that going to be a good idea? A slight chance of a thunderstorm was forecast for the afternoon and already there was an active storm right in front of me.
The Angeles National Forest Trail Races (aka Mt. Disappointment) is a popular event usually run in the heat of Summer after the Fourth of July. Because of the pandemic, Bobcat Fire, and trail and road closures, the race has been on hiatus since 2020, but a new race date appears to be in the works!
Another ragged bolt flashed horizontally across the clouds. The cell looked isolated and appeared to be moving to the north. I decided to take a chance and bet that the morning storm was a quirk. Still, it suggested a real possibility of a thunderstorm later in the day.
About the time I passed Trail Canyon on Big Tujunga Canyon Road, it started to rain, and the rain continued much of the way to Red Box. The activity was actually more extensive than the cell near Mt. Lukens — a band of thunderstorms had swept through the San Gabriel Mountains between Mt. Lukens and Mt. Wilson.
Mt. Wilson Road was still wet as I started down the first leg of the ANFTR/Mt. Disappointment 60K/50K/25K courses. If you have to run on pavement, running downhill on super-scenic Mt. Wilson Road after a thunderstorm is about as good as it gets! The cleansed atmosphere and vivid smells in the wake of the storm were remarkable — as were the views down into the canyon of the West Fork San Gabriel River.
This morning, I was doing the 25K course, but all the distances follow the same route to Red Box. They start by running down Mt. Wilson Road to Eaton Saddle and then following Mt. Lowe Fire Road through Mueller Tunnel to Markham Saddle and the San Gabriel Peak Trail. The San Gabriel Peak Trail leads up to the Mt. Disappointment service road and, surprisingly, the high point of the 60K/50K/25K courses. This stretch of service road is higher than the start/finish on Mt. Wilson!
Even if you have run a trail many, many times — and think you’re familiar with it — sooner or later, you’re going to encounter something you didn’t expect. From the Mt. Disappointment service road, the ANFTR/Mt. Disappointment courses turn onto the Mt. Disappointment/Bill Riley Trail. After the first couple of switchbacks, there were an increasing number of cut limbs on the trail. Initially, the cuttings were not much of an issue, but became worse as I continued down the trail.
Partway down, I encountered two very upset hikers who had lost the trail. They had just decided to leave the trail and hike on the service road. They cautioned me that the section where they had problems was just below. They weren’t kidding. I’ve done this trail innumerable times and at one point also had difficulty locating it. I had to wade through an expanse of cuttings to stay on the trail.
I’ve been on trails impacted by forest thinning projects before. The crews that worked on those projects at least made an effort to keep the trails clear. No such attempt was made here — the cuttings were left where they fell, and if that was on the trail, too bad!
It was a relief to get off the Mt. Disappointment/Bill Riley Trail and down to Mt. Wilson Road and Red Box.
Update October 2, 2024. I ran the ANFTR 25K Course on Sunday and the cuttings on the Mt. Disappointment/Bill Riley Trail had been removed. The trail was clear and back to normal!
Unlike last year, Rincon-Red Box Road was in great shape. It was so well-graded that a Prius might have been able to drive down to West Fork. Much of the 5.5 miles down to West Fork are in full sun, so the temperature has a substantial impact. In the 2019 ANFTR/Mt. Disappointment 50K, the thermometer on my pack read about 80 degrees. In the 2017 50K, the temp on the same stretch was about 100 degrees. Today, it was around 90.
Whatever the temperature, there are excellent views down the West Fork and of the Mt. Wilson area. The towers on Mt. Wilson always look tantalizingly close, and the climb up Strayns Canyon doesn’t look that bad. (Ha!) Like last year, there were four or five creek-like crossings of the West Fork San Gabriel River.
The area around the spring at West Fork was a bit overgrown, but a trampled path through the grass below the cistern led to the outflow pipe. I refilled my hydration pack and drank my fill before setting off on the Gabrielino Trail. With the temperature in the sun at West Fork around 95, I should have spent more time at the spring cooling down.
It’s only about 1.6 miles from the spring to where the Kenyon Devore Trail forks left off the Gabrielino Trail, but it often seems longer. Probably because I’m anticipating the turnoff and don’t want to miss it. This morning, it was also the hottest stretch on the course, with the temperature in the sun topping out at around 100 degrees.
Based on some recent runs, I expected the Poodle-dog bush on this stretch to be a problem, but most of the Poodle-dog bush had been trimmed or was wilting. It wasn’t the only thing that was wilting. Shortly after turning off the Gabrielino Trail and onto the Kenyon Devore Trail, the combination of heat and humidity hit me like the proverbial brick. I had to back off the pace.
Not long after that, I was startled by a runner coming up behind me. It turned out to be another runner from the West San Fernando Valley! Charlie was training for UTMB and putting in a tough 27-mile, 8700′ gain day. We had a great conversation about races, running, and adventures in the mountains. Despite the heat, he was moving well and soon disappeared up the trail.
I continued chugging up the trail, noting familiar features as I climbed higher and higher. Eventually, the white dome of the Hooker 100 inch Telescope came into view, and I knew I just about done!
As I worked up the final half-mile of trail, I could see only a couple of isolated build-ups of cumulus clouds. One was over the desert and the other was to the east near San Gorgonio. The sky over Mt. Wilson was mostly clear.
Here’s a high-resolution, interactive, 3D-terrain view of the Mt. Wilson – Red Box – West Fork – Kenyon Devore Loop. The loop is a slightly shorter version of the ANFTR/Mt. Disappointment 25K.
Some related posts:
– After the Bobcat Fire: Running the ANFTR 25K Course
– An ANFTR/Mt. Disappointment 2020 Adventure
Fog, Flowers and an Ingenious Spider on the Trippet Ranch Loop
In their forecast discussion for today, the NWS Los Angeles Oxnard commented, “A long-lasting and extreme heatwave will continue across the region, and especially the interior…” The high temperature was expected to range from 105 to 115 across the interior valleys, mountains and deserts.
I was doing the Trippet Ranch Loop from the Top of Reseda. The highs on the San Fernando Valley side of the Santa Monica Mountains were expected to be in the 90s. But keep in mind that’s essentially the temperature in the shade. In full sun, the temperature could be 10 to 15 degrees higher. When I reached the Hub, at 7:00 in the morning the in-the-sun temperature was already around 90 degrees.
Nearer the coast, temps were expected to be a little cooler. From the Hub, I could see why. A shallow marine layer had developed along the coast. A couple of miles later, as I neared Trippet Ranch, I descended into a bank of wonderfully cool fog. It wouldn’t last, but I enjoyed the coolness as I continued down to Trippet Ranch and around to the Musch Trail.
I hadn’t run very far on the Musch Trail when I came across a remarkable spider web. The spider had ingeniously bowed a flexible stalk of tall grass to build its web. This solution avoided having to span the web between two stalks. I also wondered if the added tension would make the web more efficient.
At Musch Camp, I topped off my water bottle and then continued working up the trail. Near a still-seeping vernal creek, a speckled-orange Humboldt lily bloomed brightly in a patch of poison oak.
From the camp, the Musch Trail climbs about 400′, in a bit over a mile, to the junction of Eagle Rock and Eagle Springs Fire Roads. A left turn here leads past Eagle Rock to the top of the Garapito Trail.
Other than the Bent Arrow Trail—which remains closed—the Garapito Trail is the “End of Reseda” trail most impacted by our back-to-back wet rain seasons. At times, washouts, debris flows, slides, fallen trees, and vigorously growing chaparral plants have made the trail nearly impassable. The Santa Monica Mountains Task Force worked tirelessly over the Winter to restore the trail.
Of course, the rain that caused all the problems on the Garapito Trail has also resulted in numerous wildflowers along that trail. Today, some of the most prominent were scarlet larkspur, scarlet monkeyflower, Indian pink, and Plummer’s mariposa lily. And, Garapito Creek was still trickling in July!
This high-resolution, interactive, 3-D terrain view shows the Trippet Ranch Loop (yellow). The track of the closed Bent Arrow Trail is shown in red.
Some related posts:
– Trippet Ranch Loop, Musch and Garapito Trails – February 2024
– Trippet Ranch Loop Plus Temescal Peak and Temescal Lookout
– Fogbow Near the Top of Hell Hill in Pt. Mugu State Park
Out and Back Trail Run from Islip Saddle to Mt. Baden-Powell – July 2024 Update
Update July 22, 2024. The Poodle-dog bush along the PCT near Islip Saddle has been cleared by Gary Hilliard and the AC 100 Trail Team!
When I reached the summit of Mt. Baden-Powell (9,399′), it was empty, save an opportunistic raven who was evaluating the chances that the Larabar I was eating might fall to the ground.
On top, the heat of the strong Summer sun was offset by a cooling breeze. There was still a few thin ribbons of snow in the chutes on Mt. Baldy. With the excellent visibility, San Jacinto Peak could be seen in the notch between Mt. Baldy and Dawson Peak, and San Gorgonio Mountain was sharply visible to the left of Pine Mountain.
Other than a few people at Little Jimmy hike-in camp, I saw no one on the way up from Islip Saddle. A quarter-mile from the trailhead, there was an astonishing display of Poodle-dog bush along the PCT. In 2011, when a large part of Angeles National Forest reopened following the Station Fire, I developed an extensive rash after bushwhacking through Poodle-dog on overgrown trails. After that experience I’ve been more careful around the plant, and haven’t had a bad case since.
Trees were across the trail in a few places. Most were fairly easy to bypass, but a couple were “inconvenient,” such as this big log, about 0.75 mile east of Windy Gap.
As I worked up the switchbacks above the log, to the southwest I could see the observatory and towers on Mt. Wilson. As a result of the damage to Chantry Flat in the Bobcat Fire, Mt. Wilson was on the Angeles Crest 100 Mile course last year, and will be again this year. As the raven flies, Mt. Wilson was only about 16 miles away, but for someone running the AC100, the miles along its challenging course would total well over 50!
For several years I’ve been following the regrowth of conifers in four places along the PCT that were burned in the 2002 Curve Fire. What has been underscored in my informal study is a) trees take a long time to regrow, and b) frequent fires in an area are particularly devastating. Stand #1 (1.5 miles east of Islip Saddle on the PCT) was recovering nicely from the 2002 Curve Fire when it was burned in the 2020 Bobcat Fire. This comparison shows the result. The other three stands continue to recover well, with south-facing Stand #4, west of Throop Peak, growing particularly vigorously.
Ascending the final 400′ of gain on Baden-Powell’s west ridge, I was surprised to see a couple of small patches of snow remained on the north side of the ridge. The snowpack here was nowhere near as big as in 2023, but it was still pleasing to see that a little of the white stuff survived until July.
No out and back to Baden-Powell is complete without a quick stop at Little Jimmy Spring. Today, the water from spring was so cold it was painful to hold my hand in the water flowing from the pipe!
Some related posts:
– It’s Mid-July And There Is Still Snow in Los Angeles County!
– A Cool and Breezy Out and Back Trail Run from Islip Saddle to Mt. Baden-Powell
– Contact Dermatitis from Eriodictyon parryi – Poodle-dog Bush
– Regrowth of Trees Along the PCT Following the 2002 Curve Fire
Hot Weather on the Three Points Loop
When Angeles Crest Highway opened between Upper Big Tujunga Road and Islip Saddle last Fall, I jumped on the chance to do the Three Points loop around Mt. Waterman. When in good condition and with good weather, the 20+ mile loop is one of my favorites. That day, the trail conditions could have been better.
Turn the clock forward to this Spring, and once again, road closures were limiting access to Three Points. Angeles Crest Highway was still closed between Red Box and Upper Big Tujunga Canyon Road, and the alternate route — Upper Big Tujunga Canyon Road — was “Only Open To Contractors, Residents, & Emergency Vehicles.” Recently, the Los Angeles County Road Closures website updated the status of Upper Big Tujunga Canyon Road to “Access Limited, Expect Delays.”
Excited to get back on the Three Points Loop, on Sunday I found myself motoring up Upper Big Tujunga Canyon Road, headed for the Three Points Trailhead. There were no problems or delays getting to Angeles Crest Highway, and I pulled into the Three Points parking lot at about 6:30 a.m.
Having done the Three Points Loop many times and in a variety of conditions, I didn’t think much about the difficulties on the loop in November. Like others that relish the outdoors, my brain is very good at shaping memories so as to emphasize the positive and downplay — or outright ignore — the negative.
I’d checked the weather — a Heat Advisory had been issued for the San Gabriel Mountains, and there was a chance of thunderstorms from a dissipating tropical storm. A key part of the loop, Cooper Canyon, has a rep for being hot. Much of the PCT on that stretch is on sparsely-forested, south-facing slopes. My thought was that maybe there would be enough clouds to take the edge off the heat.
Nope! The in the sun temperature in Cooper Canyon was around 100 degrees. The good news was Buckhorn Campground was open and my favorite water faucet had plenty of water. Plus, the creek in Cooper Canyon was running, so I could cool off and supplement my water.
The trail conditions were virtually identical to those last November, but with heat added. The Three Points — Mt. Waterman Trail was a bit overgrown, and there were many downed trees across the trail. In November there was a particularly inconvenient tree blocking the PCT on the north side of the creek, just west of the Burkhart Trail junction, and it was still there today.
There seemed to be more Poodle-dog bush than back in November, or maybe it was easier to spot because it was blooming. The big winner among the multitude of wildflowers was beardtongue penstemon, which was blooming profusely on some of the slopes burned in the Bobcat Fire. Other wildflowers I saw along the trail included bigleaf lupine, little paintbrush, scarlet monkeyflower, narrow-leaved lotus, golden yarrow, gilia, wallflower, and red columbine.
Because of the trail conditions, heat, and altitude, the Three Points Loop today was more difficult than the 50K I ran two weeks ago!
This high resolution, interactive, 3-D terrain view shows the Three Points Loop (yellow) along with a couple of options (red). The side trip to the summit of Mt. Waterman adds about 1.75 miles to the run.
Some related posts:
– Three Points Loop Following the Reopening of Angeles Crest Highway
– Cool Weather, Old Trees, Grape Soda Lupine and a Restored Trail
– Three Points Loop Adventure – July 2020
Encinal Canyon – Mishe Mokwa Loop – Sandstone Peak Running Adventure
I enjoy doing trail runs with an added element of adventure, exploration, or quirkiness. A run might climb a peak, look for a particular wildflower, or check out a rock formation, a creek, or an old trail. The possibilities are endless.
Whenever I’ve done the out-and-back trail run from Encinal Canyon to Mishe Mokwa, I’ve thought about extending it to Sandstone Peak. Doing so would add the ascent of the highest peak in the Santa Monica Mountains to an already excellent run. Even better, I could run from Encinal Canyon to Mishe Mokwa, do the Mishe Mokwa Loop — including Sandstone Peak — then run back to Encinal Canyon. That would be an exceptionally scenic 26+ miles, with much of it on the Backbone Trail.
An advantage to doing the run this Spring is that back-to-back wet rain seasons have recharged the area’s streams, and I would (theoretically) be able to get water from a creek on the Mishe Mokwa Trail. Another plus is that all the rain has resulted in historic conditions, with extraordinary displays of a variety of wildflowers.
The day dawned overcast and cool, a deep marine layer covering most of the area. I was running west on the Backbone Trail between Encinal Canyon and Mishe Mokwa. The weather could not have been better for the initial 10+ miles of what I hoped to be a challenging and enjoyable run.
Along the way, I marveled at the explosion of wildflowers along the Backbone Trail. In addition to the extensive bloom of deerweed, pitcher sage, black sage, canyon sunflower and purple nightshade lined the trail.
About 8 miles into the run, as the Backbone Trail crossed the west shoulder of Triunfo Peak, a new trail sign had been posted. It marked the recently completed trail connecting the Backbone Trail to Yellow Hill Fire Road and the top of Triunfo Peak. The new trail replaces a use trail that had evolved here, and expands the route choices when running or hiking in the area.
It was still overcast as I ran through the little valley below Mishe Mokwa. Above, I could see the Backbone Trail winding up toward Sandstone Peak and into the clouds. There was a colorful selection of wildflowers along the trail, including speckled Clarkia, canyon live-forever, yellow monkeyflower, woolly blue-curls, and others.
I had planned to make a go-no-go decision at Mishe Mokwa, but something in me had already made that decision miles ago.
When I reached Mishe Mokwa, I didn’t stop. I jogged across Yerba Buena Road and started hiking up the Mishe Mokwa Trail. It was still cool and my legs felt surprisingly good. The only question was: Would the creek at Split Rock actually be running?
Having run the Mishe Mokwa – Sandstone Peak Loop on other adventures, and climbed at Echo Cliffs, I was familiar with the trails. The 6+ mile loop from the Mishe Mokwa parking area is one of the most scenic short loops in the Santa Monica Mountains and deservingly popular.
The Mishe Mokwa Trail traverses the rocky slopes directly across the canyon from Echo Cliffs and Balance Rock. The dramatic rock formations are so close that climbers can be heard conversing as they climb the steep faces. This stretch of trail is demanding and has a few steep steps— up and down — that have to be navigated.
As I worked past Echo Cliffs, I passed a large group of hikers that had stopped to enjoy the view from the top of a prominent outcrop.
Earlier, I’d encountered a runner coming down the trail, and he’d been pessimistic about using the creek as a water source. But the burbling sound echoing in the canyon below me left little doubt that the creek was running.
It seemed everyone on the trail converged at Split Rock. When I arrived, one large group was already taking a break there, and by the time I finished getting water, another group joined them.
As a water source, the creek was a bit funky. I debated skipping it but thought of a friend’s comments regarding water sources on the Arizona Trail. How bad could it be? The drainage below Tri Peaks is relatively isolated and there are no cattle. At least, that’s how I rationalized it.
With the cool conditions, I only needed about a half-liter of water. And, of course, a little way up the trail, there was another — probably better — water source. I briefly debated dumping my water and refilling, but decided to continue.
At Split Rock, the character of the trail changes. It becomes much more straightforward as it gains elevation, passes below Tri Peaks, joins the Backbone Trail, and circles around to Sandstone Peak.
Given the number of people on the Mishe Mokwa and Backbone Trails, I expected the top of Sandstone Peak to be a busy place. But the timing worked out perfectly — only two people were on the summit. Most of the clouds had cleared, revealing Sandstone Peak’s superb views.
Since I did the loop counterclockwise, the return to the Mishe Mokwa parking area from Sandstone Peak was much shorter (and steeper) than the trails to get there. Bush lupine lined the road; its unique fragrance and vibrant color a treat for the senses.
Partway down, the shoulder of the trail had collapsed in a slide. It had been temporarily stabilized with a large white sheet of plastic that must have been visible from miles away. Continuing the descent, I took great care not to miss the turn onto the connector to the Mishe Mokwa Trail. At this point in the run, I didn’t want to do any “bonus mileage!”
The return from Mishe Mokwa to Encinal Canyon is a bit of a blur. Everyone I encountered on the trail — and particularly the mountain bikers — were super-cool, several offering a quick high-five as they passed. The encouragement must have helped — my time returning to the Encinal Canyon Trailhead was faster by a few minutes than the time going out!
This interactive 3-D terrain view shows my GPS track of the Encinal Canyon – Mishe Mokwa Loop – Sandstone Peak Running Adventure. The map can be zoomed, tilted, rotated, and panned. It is initially zoomed in on the Mishe Mokwa loop.
And BTW, even though it was a cool day, I was nearly out of water when I got back to Encinal. It took a little time to purify the water from the creek but having the additional water helped. So far, no obvious problems have resulted.
Some related posts:
– Encinal Canyon to Mishe Mokwa Out and Back Trail Run
– Encinal Canyon to Triunfo Peak
– Balance Rock
– Mishe Mokwa – Sandstone Peak – Grotto Trail Run