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Rim Trail – Kenyon Devore Loop from the Top of Mt. Wilson

first published July 28, 2024 & last updated August 8, 2024 Gary Valle

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San Gabriels High County from the Rim Trail

It was great to be back on the Rim Trail! One of the most underappreciated trails in Angeles National Forest, the 3.6 mile trail was closed in October 2020 because of the Bobcat Fire. It finally reopened in June of this year (2024).

Mt. Harvard from near the start of the Rim Trail on top of Mt. Wilson. — Mt. Harvard from near the start of the Rim Trail.

This morning’s run had started at the top of the Kenyon Devore Trail from the same turnout on Mt. Wilson Circle Road as two weeks before. This time, instead of running down Mt. Wilson Road, I had descended a short distance on the Kenyon Devore Trail and turned right (east) on a half-mile long trail that connects to the main Mt. Wilson parking lot. From there I followed the “Authorized Vehicles Only” road toward the observatory about a quarter-mile to the signed start of the Rim Trail. Interpretive signs along the road note some of the area’s plants and trees.

An exhilarating section of the Rim Trail where it is narrow and bounded by a rock wall. — An exhilarating stretch of the Rim Trail.

When done as a counterclockwise loop from Mt. Wilson, the Rim Trail switchbacks down Mt. Wilson’s steep northeast ridge and then contours along the north side of the West Fork – Santa Anita Canyon divide to Newcomb Pass. Along the way are spectacular views of the Mt. Wilson Observatory complex, the canyons of the West and East Forks San Gabriel River, and the high country of the San Gabriel Mountains. On a clear day, Saddleback, San Jacinto Peak, and San Gorgonio Mountain can be spotted from the trail. To the north, the vast Mojave desert stretches out from the foot of the mountains.

Even though it was closed for nearly four years, the Rim Trail was in remarkably good shape. The trail dips into and out of the Bobcat burn area as it works down the ridge and along the divide. Much of the trail was unscathed, but some sections were severely burned. Sadly, this beautiful bigcone Douglas-fir was destroyed.

Poodle-dog bush marks the stretches of trail burned in the Bobcat Fire. With care, it was generally avoidable, as was the abundant poison oak found on some sections of the trail. (Like poison oak, Poodle-dog bush causes a rash in many people.)

On the way down the Rim Trail, I’d debated which route to take from Newcomb Pass. One option was to run over to Newcomb Saddle and take Rincon-Redbox Road to West Fork. Another was to follow the Gabrielino Trail to Devore Camp and then West Fork. The single-track route through Devore Camp is a more interesting option and is usually my choice.

Trailwork on the Rim Trail near Newcomb Pass.

As I neared Newcomb Pass, I was surprised to see recent trailwork on the isolated stretch of trail. This was a hopeful sign the Gabrielino Trail between Newcomb Pass and Devore Camp might be in decent shape.

At Newcomb Pass, all signs of any trailwork ended. I looked at the first few overgrown yards of the trail connecting to Newcomb Saddle and thought, “I’ll give the Gabrielino Trail a try.” I could see an ill-defined path where the Gabrielino Trail should go and tried to follow it. No go. A lower path also appeared to be a dead end.

I enjoy the challenge of following little-used trails, but today was more interested in running than bushwhacking. Retracing my steps, I returned to the trail connecting to Newcomb Saddle.

Newly installed downslope drain blocking access to the Gabrielino Trail from Rincon-Redbox Road. — Newly installed downslope drain blocking access to the Gabrielino Trail

It wasn’t as bad as I initially thought. The trail was a bit overgrown, but was on an old roadbed and pretty easy to follow. (Later, I discovered I had a bite from a larval tick, which I’m sure I picked up in the Newcomb Pass area.)

Rincon-Redbox Road was wide open and in great shape. When I reached the point where the Gabrielino Trail crosses the road, neither direction on the trail looked particularly promising. Up the trail looked overgrown, and down the trail was blocked by a newly constructed drainage conduit. The Gabrielino Trail is a National Recreation Trail in a National Monument, so should (hopefully) be fully restored.

Jose and Gary cleaning debris underneath a log on the Gabrielino Trail near West Fork.

Running down Rincon-Redbox Road and lost in thought, I was somewhat startled to see a red truck round a bend. I was even more surprised when it turned out to be race director and trailmaster Gary Hilliard. Gary and Jose were out the weekend before the AC100 trying to chase down a couple of logs — one reported to be blocking access to the Newcomb Saddle aid station and another on the Gabrielino Trail “a half-mile from West Fork.”

I’ve had the privilege of running in all of Gary’s ANFTR/Mt. Disappointment races. No one works harder or is more dedicated to the trails of Angeles National Forest and trail running. I didn’t recall a log blocking the road, but it would only take Gary a few minutes to drive up to the aid station and be sure. With cruise control on and lost in thought, I continued running down to West Fork.

At West Fork, I stopped at “the pipe” to get water and cool off. From here, it’s a memorable 5-mile, 2600′ climb to the top of the Kenyon Devore Trail.

Kenyon Devore Trail on Mt. Wilson — Kenyon Devore Trail

I’d been here two weeks before. The Rim Trail – Newcomb Saddle – Kenyon Devore Loop is the mirror image of the Mt. Wilson – Red Box – Kenyon Devore Loop. Two weeks ago it was around 10 degrees warmer and humid. I’d bonked on the climb, and wasn’t looking to repeat that experience today.

This morning – except for a couple of rattlesnakes – the run from West Fork couldn’t have gone better! I even jogged some of the less steep sections of the Kenyon Devore Trail!

Here’s a high-resolution, interactive, 3D-terrain view of the Rim Trail – Newcomb Saddle – Kenyon Devore Loop. The Gabrielino Trail option through Devore Camp is also shown.

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Out and Back Trail Run from Islip Saddle to Mt. Baden-Powell – July 2024 Update

first published July 1, 2024 & last updated July 22, 2024 Gary Valle

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Mt. Baden-Powell from the PCT near Throop Peak.

Update July 22, 2024. The Poodle-dog bush along the PCT near Islip Saddle has been cleared by Gary Hilliard and the AC 100 Trail Team!

When I reached the summit of Mt. Baden-Powell (9,399′), it was empty, save an opportunistic raven who was evaluating the chances that the Larabar I was eating might fall to the ground.

On top, the heat of the strong Summer sun was offset by a cooling breeze. There was still a few thin ribbons of snow in the chutes on Mt. Baldy. With the excellent visibility, San Jacinto Peak could be seen in the notch between Mt. Baldy and Dawson Peak, and San Gorgonio Mountain was sharply visible to the left of Pine Mountain.

Poodle-dog bush (Eriodictyon parryi) along the PCT just east of Islip Saddle. (thumbnail) — Poodle-dog bush along the PCT just east of Islip Saddle.

Other than a few people at Little Jimmy hike-in camp, I saw no one on the way up from Islip Saddle. A quarter-mile from the trailhead, there was an astonishing display of Poodle-dog bush along the PCT. In 2011, when a large part of Angeles National Forest reopened following the Station Fire, I developed an extensive rash after bushwhacking through Poodle-dog on overgrown trails. After that experience I’ve been more careful around the plant, and haven’t had a bad case since.

Trees were across the trail in a few places. Most were fairly easy to bypass, but a couple were “inconvenient,” such as this big log, about 0.75 mile east of Windy Gap.

Bright red beaked penstemon (Penstemon rostriflorus) along the PCT above Windy Gap. (thumbnail) — Bright red beaked penstemon along the PCT above Windy Gap

As I worked up the switchbacks above the log, to the southwest I could see the observatory and towers on Mt. Wilson. As a result of the damage to Chantry Flat in the Bobcat Fire, Mt. Wilson was on the Angeles Crest 100 Mile course last year, and will be again this year. As the raven flies, Mt. Wilson was only about 16 miles away, but for someone running the AC100, the miles along its challenging course would total well over 50!

For several years I’ve been following the regrowth of conifers in four places along the PCT that were burned in the 2002 Curve Fire. What has been underscored in my informal study is a) trees take a long time to regrow, and b) frequent fires in an area are particularly devastating. Stand #1 (1.5 miles east of Islip Saddle on the PCT) was recovering nicely from the 2002 Curve Fire when it was burned in the 2020 Bobcat Fire. This comparison shows the result. The other three stands continue to recover well, with south-facing Stand #4, west of Throop Peak, growing particularly vigorously.

View WNW along Mt. Baden-Powell's west ridge. (thumbnail) — Limber pine (left) along Mt. Baden-Powell’s west ridge.

Ascending the final 400′ of gain on Baden-Powell’s west ridge, I was surprised to see a couple of small patches of snow remained on the north side of the ridge. The snowpack here was nowhere near as big as in 2023, but it was still pleasing to see that a little of the white stuff survived until July.

No out and back to Baden-Powell is complete without a quick stop at Little Jimmy Spring. Today, the water from spring was so cold it was painful to hold my hand in the water flowing from the pipe!

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Goldfields, Silt Slides, Oak Leaves, Invasive Thistle, Rough Trails, and a Reminder to be Watchful

first published March 23, 2024 & last updated March 30, 2024 Gary Valle

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Goldfields blooming on Lasky Mesa - March 2024 — Goldfields blooming on Lasky Mesa

Following are some notes and photos from runs in Upper Las Virgenes Canyon Open Space Preserve (Ahmanson Ranch) during March 2024. Spring is here! The hills are green, goldfields and other wildflowers are blooming, and Las Virgenes Creek is flowing.

Goldfields and Other Wildflowers

The first goldfields (Lasthenia gracilis) of 2024 began to bloom on Lasky Mesa at the end of February. Now, bright yellow patches of these “belly” flowers are scattered across the mesa, adding a brush of color to the roads and trails of Ahmanson Ranch. The cheery flowers usually disappear with the first spell of hot and dry weather. Looking ahead, more rain and cool weather are forecast Easter weekend, and extended temperature outlooks are mixed. Hopefully, the goldfields will be around for a few more weeks.

Catalina mariposa lily at Ahmanson Ranch. March 27, 2024. (thumbnail) — Catalina mariposa lily. Click to enlarge.

Some other wildflowers are also blooming. Blue Dicks usually flourish following a wet Winter, but this March are less widespread than usual. Red maids are also less numerous than normal and their flowers somewhat smaller. The elegant white flowers of Catalina mariposa lily are just starting to bloom.

Thanks to T.S. Hilary’s false Spring and copious Winter rain, the hills of Ahmanson Ranch have been green since early October.

Silt Slides

Slides of silty soil in Upper Las Virgenes Canyon Open Space Preserve (thumbnail) — New (left) and old slides of silty soil. Click to enlarge.

With all the rain, small, shallow mudslides have been common along road cuts and other steep slopes of Ahmanson Ranch. The area has fine-grained silty soil. When saturated, it can generate a slurry of silt and debris. The numerous scars on the hillsides suggest this is a primary mechanism of erosion in the area.

Valley Oaks

After losing their leaves in December, the Valley Oaks at Ahmanson are now budding and sprouting. Some trees already have new leaves, while others are still bare-limbed. The period valley oaks are without leaves varies from year to year depending on rainfall, temperature, sunshine, and other factors.

Invasive Milk Thistle

Milk thistle in Las Virgenes Canyon — Milk thistle. Click to enlarge.

Milk thistle thrives during wet years, and it’s been very wet. We’ve had two consecutive wet years, plus a tropical storm thrown in for good measure. The invasive is sprouting in areas where it doesn’t normally grow and growing prolifically in areas where it is established. In a few months, milk thistle may look like it did in May 2005, following the record 2004-2005 rain year.

Rough Trails

Upper Las Virgenes Creek (thumbnail) — Upper Las Virgenes Creek. Click to enlarge.

Profuse rainfall is a two-edged sword. It revitalizes the ecosystem, turns the hills green, recharges the creeks, preserves the trees, produces wildflowers and more. But it can also be problematic — triggering slides, washing out and damaging trails, and promoting plant growth that chokes trails and increases the fire hazard.

At the moment, the roads and trails at Ahmanson are a bit rougher than normal, particularly in East Las Virgenes Canyon. Use and drier weather will gradually smooth out the ruts and rugosities, but we’re going to be picking foxtails from our socks for some time to come.

Upper Las Virgenes Creek is still flowing — including in the canyon’s upper reaches. Sometimes, there will even be a log or two in place to help keep your shoes dry.

And A Reminder to be Watchful

Baby rattlesnake at Ahmanson Ranch (thumbnail) — Baby rattlesnake. Click to enlarge.

I sometimes stretch at the info kiosk at the Victory trailhead before running. Today, as I placed my hands against one of the kiosk posts and started to stretch, I glanced down. Disturbingly close to my feet was a small snake. Adrenaline flowing, I checked the head and tail and then checked them again. I stepped back and began to breathe. It was a gopher snake. But it could have just as easily been a rattlesnake. In fact, later on that run, I encountered a baby rattlesnake. That day and the next (March 20 and 21), I saw a total of four gopher snakes and two Southern Pacific rattlesnakes.

Some related posts:

– Ahmanson Ranch and Las Virgenes Creek After Six Days of Rain
– East Las Virgenes Canyon After a Seventh Day of Rain
– A Second Spring at Ahmanson Ranch
– Looking For Local Impacts of Tropical Storm Hilary

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Caught in a Thunderstorm on Rocky Peak

first published March 7, 2024 & last updated March 30, 2024 Gary Valle

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Sun and gathering clouds on Rocky Peak Road before a strong thunderstorm — Sun and gathering clouds on Rocky Peak Road

Rocky Peak Road is an exceptionally popular hiking and biking trail that starts at Santa Susana Pass, on the north side of the 118 Freeway. Regardless of the time of day or weather I ALWAYS see someone on this trail.

The plan for this afternoon’s run was to do an out and back on Rocky Peak Road to the top of the Chumash Trail (3.8 miles) or to Fossil Point (4.8 miles).

Another runner was finishing their workout as I started up the initial steep climb. Glistening in the warm sun, runoff from yesterday’s storm streaked some of the sandstone rocks, and ephemeral streams gurgled in the ravines and gullies.

Thanks to the sandstone geology, the dirt road wasn’t as muddy as most other local trails would be. Although heavily eroded from numerous Winter storms, it was still near the top of my list of places to run during periods of wet weather.

In the aftermath of yesterday’s storm the weather was spectacular. The temperature was warm enough to run in shorts and short-sleeves but still comfortable chugging up Rocky Peak Road’s steep hills. Puffy cumulus clouds filled the sky, creating postcard views at every turn.

Clouds developing over the San Fernando Valley (thumbnail) — Clouds developing over the San Fernando Valley. Click to enlarge.

More focused about getting up the hill than any weather concerns, I continued past the top of the Hummingbird Trail and through a gap in the rocks to a section of road with a good view of the San Fernando Valley and San Gabriel Mountains.

I’d been in a situation similar to this several times on Rocky Peak. As a storm moves east from Los Angeles, energy circulating around the low can sometimes result in “back-door” precipitation. In this scenario, clouds build-up over the mountains to the north and then drift over the San Fernando Valley, producing showers — and sometimes — thunderstorms.

But today’s scenario was a bit more complicated. A much larger area, extending east to the San Gabriel Mountains, was rapidly destabilizing. What had been a picturesque sky at the start of the run was now congested and ominous. The question wasn’t so much if it was going to rain, but if a thunderstorm was going to develop.

As I continued up the road, the sky darkened, the temperature cooled, and the wind became more gusty and fitful. A little chilly, I pulled on my arm sleeves. I laughed nervously as I mistook the roar of a passing jet for thunder. That was a jet, right?

When people say they are “doing Rocky Peak,” they are often referring to a high point on Rocky Peak Road that is west of the actual peak and about 2.4 miles from the trailhead. The final climb to this high point is a good one — gaining about 450 feet over three-quarters of a mile.

The road on this stretch is oriented in such a way that the terrain hides the view to the north. I was anxious to get to the top of the hill so I could get a better idea of what the weather was doing. As I worked up the road, I would occasionally feel the cold splash of a raindrop on one leg or the other.

Doppler radar of strong thunderstorm over Rocky Peak (Thumbnail) — Doppler radar of strong thunderstorm over Rocky Peak. Click to enlarge.

Nearing the top, I thought, “I may get wet, but at least there’s been no thunder.” Within seconds of that proclamation, and as I reached the highest point, there was a long, loud, crackling peal of thunder.

One look at the sky and all thoughts of continuing to the Chumash Trail were gone. I turned around and started running down the hill, hoping to avoid the worst of the storm.

First one pea-sized hailstone hit the ground, then another, and then a sleety barrage of rain and hail poured from the sky. Instantly soaked, I shuddered as thunder echoed overhead and cold rain ran down my back. Muddy water flowed in rivulets down the sodden road and I cautioned myself to run fast, but not too fast.

I didn’t expect to outrun the storm, but hoped I might move to a part of it that was less intense. And that’s what happened. As I descended, the deluge gradually diminished. Most of the activity seemed to be behind me and a little to the east.

Severe thunderstorm over Porter Ranch - Northridge area (Thumbnail) — Severe thunderstorm moving into the Porter Ranch – Northridge area. Click to enlarge.

By the time I got down to the Hummingbird Trail, it was only sprinkling. The strong cell that had been over Rocky Peak had drifted southeast, and was now over the Porter Ranch – Northridge area.

National Weather Service Doppler Radar tells the story. At the start of the run there were scattered, mostly weak echoes. At 3:06 pm, as I was starting up the last long hill, a cell northwest of Rocky Peak was developing and drifting southeast. Over the next 16 minutes the cell continued to move southeastward and strengthen, and at 3:22 pm was over the Rocky Peak area. I turned around and started down as the cell moved into that area.

The cell over Rocky Peak continued to strengthen, and at 3:39 pm had drifted over the Porter Ranch – Northridge area. At 3:44 pm the NWS issued a Severe Thunderstorm Warning for Western Los Angeles County.

Here are a GOES-18 satellite loop and Doppler Radar loop that show the development and track of the Rocky Peak thunderstorm.

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Wonderful Wildflowers, a Seasonal Bridge, and a Cranky Rattlesnake on the Bulldog Loop

first published April 23, 2023 & last updated May 20, 2023 Gary Valle

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Canyon sunflowers covering a hillside in Malibu Creek State Park that was burned in the 2018 Woolsey Fire — Canyon sunflowers covering a hillside burned in the 2018 Woolsey Fire

Update May 5, 2023. Did a run this afternoon in Malibu Creek State Park and the seasonal bridge across Malibu Creek on the Crags Road Trail is back in place!

As I approached the M*A*S*H site, I could see some people taking photos. I stopped to say hi, and without skipping a beat, one of them asked, “Did you wade across the creek?”

He was asking about the creek crossing where Crags Road crosses Malibu Creek upstream of Century Lake and east of the M*A*S*H site.

Prickly phlox along the Tapia Spur Trail in Malibu Creek State Park — Prickly phlox along the Tapia Spur Trail.

There’s a substantial log spanning the creek at the moment, and I wanted to answer that I danced across it with my eyes closed. But instead, I explained that I decided to wade — and for sure keep my phone dry — rather than take a chance of falling uncontrolled into three feet of water, ker-splash.

Speaking of which, this morning, I talked to a mountain biker who saw the bridge pulled off to the side of the creek before any flooding had occurred and thought it may have been hauled away. Good news! According to the Malibu Creek Docents, the bridge is seasonal and was designed to be portable. It was removed and stored before this Winter’s rain. It is expected to be reinstalled when the threat of flooding is over — which should be soon.

Vinca growing at the base of a coast redwood in Malibu Creek State Park — Vinca growing at the base of a coast redwood along the Forest Trail.

After crossing Malibu Creek and before continuing to the M*A*S*H site, I took a quick detour on the Forest Trail. Bordered by Century Lake on one side, and steep, rocky slopes on the other, the Forest Trail has a character all its own. It’s a wonderful place to observe, reflect, and enjoy nature. It’s also home to several coast redwoods. Unfortunately, less than half the trees originally growing along the trail survived the 2011-2015 drought. This morning, a redwood that died several years ago had fallen and was partially blocking the trail near its halfway point.

As has been the case in most of Southern California this Spring, the wildflowers on this run were spectacular. Canyon sunflower was particularly prevalent, with many thousands of the bright-yellow blossoms covering the hillsides burned in the 2018 Woolsey Fire.

Very dark Southern Pacific Rattlesnake on a fire road in Malibu Creek State Park — Southern Pacific Rattlesnake on Castro Peak Mtwy fire road.

Also exciting was my first rattlesnake encounter of 2023. I was running down Castro Peak Mtwy Fire Road from the Bulldog “T” when I saw something in the road that looked like a partially exposed root. As I neared, I could see it was a very dark — almost black — Southern Pacific Rattlesnake.

The snake was stretched out straight on the road, basking in the sun. As I approached, it did move, and it did not rattle. Usually, snakes in this state are pretty docile, and I can cautiously walk a few feet behind them. Yikes! This one was super-aggressive. In the blink of an eye, it turned and moved toward me, doubling back on itself. I jumped a mile! It coiled but still did not rattle! It must have recently emerged from its Winter hideaway.

Here are a few photos (primarily wildflowers) taken on the Bulldog Loop.

Also check out the M*A*S*H site web page.

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After the Bobcat and Station Fires: Three Points Loop Around Mt. Waterman (Slideshow, 3D Terrain Maps)

first published August 14, 2022 & last updated December 28, 2022 Gary Valle

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Mt. Waterman Trail

Most of the time, when I do a trail run in the San Gabriel Mountains, it starts from a trailhead along or near Highway 2 — Angeles Crest Highway.

There are many fine point-to-point and out-and-back runs along Hwy 2, but not very many loops. Of the handful of loops that are currently open and accessible, two start and end at Three Points.

One is the Three Points – Mt. Hillyer Loop and the other is the Three Points Loop around Mt. Waterman. The Three Points – Mt. Hillyer Loop was not affected by the Bobcat Fire and is described in this April 2021 post.

On the other hand, significant parts of the Three Points Loop around Mt. Waterman were burned in Bobcat Fire, and the trails that comprise the loop were closed until April of this year (2022).

A large area on Mt. Waterman was burned by both the Bobcat and Station Fires. This can be seen in this interactive, 3D terrain view of the area. The Bobcat Fire is yellow and the Station Fire is red. Where they overlap near Mt. Waterman is orange.

The Three Points Loop is the loop I do most often in the San Gabriel Mountains. The basic loop, not including the side trip to the summit of Mt. Waterman, is about 20 miles long and has about 4000′ of gain/loss. The terrain and trails are varied and interesting, and Buckhorn Campground is conveniently placed near the halfway point of the course. Water is USUALLY — BUT NOT ALWAYS — available when the campground is open.

Doing the side trip to Mt. Waterman adds about 1.7 miles and 350′ of elevation gain. The side trip to Cooper Canyon Falls is even shorter — only about a quarter-mile.

Fire perimeters and burn severity maps don’t tell the whole story, and I’ve been curious to see how the area was affected by the Bobcat Fire; how the Station Fire recovery is continuing; and how the area burned by both fires has fared.

Here is an interactive, 3D terrain view of the Three Points Loop. The map can be zoomed, tilted, rotated, and panned using the navigation control on the right. Track and placename locations are approximate and subject to errors. Poor weather and other conditions may make this route unsuitable for this activity.

This slideshow includes photos from the August 2022 run of the loop, as well as additional information.

Photography and inspiration from running and other adventures in the Open Space and Wilderness areas of California, and beyond. No ads. All content, including photography, is Copyright © 2006-2024 Gary Valle. All Rights Reserved.