Rim Trail – Kenyon Devore Loop from the Top of Mt. Wilson

San Gabriels High County from the Rim Trail
San Gabriels High County from the Rim Trail

It was great to be back on the Rim Trail! One of the most underappreciated trails in Angeles National Forest, the 3.6 mile trail was closed in October 2020 because of the Bobcat Fire. It finally reopened in June of this year (2024).

Mt. Harvard from near the start of the Rim Trail on top of Mt. Wilson.
Mt. Harvard from near the start of the Rim Trail.

This morning’s run had started at the top of the Kenyon Devore Trail from the same turnout on Mt. Wilson Circle Road as two weeks before. This time, instead of running down Mt. Wilson Road, I had descended a short distance on the Kenyon Devore Trail and turned right (east) on a half-mile long trail that connects to the main Mt. Wilson parking lot. From there I followed the “Authorized Vehicles Only” road toward the observatory about a quarter-mile to the signed start of the Rim Trail. Interpretive signs along the road note some of the area’s plants and trees.

An exhilarating section of the Rim Trail where it is narrow and bounded by a rock wall.
An exhilarating stretch of the Rim Trail.

When done as a counterclockwise loop from Mt. Wilson, the Rim Trail switchbacks down Mt. Wilson’s steep northeast ridge and then contours along the north side of the West Fork – Santa Anita Canyon divide to Newcomb Pass. Along the way are spectacular views of the Mt. Wilson Observatory complex, the canyons of the West and East Forks San Gabriel River, and the high country of the San Gabriel Mountains. On a clear day, Saddleback, San Jacinto Peak, and San Gorgonio Mountain can be spotted from the trail. To the north, the vast Mojave desert stretches out from the foot of the mountains.

Even though it was closed for nearly four years, the Rim Trail was in remarkably good shape. The trail dips into and out of the Bobcat burn area as it works down the ridge and along the divide. Much of the trail was unscathed, but some sections were severely burned. Sadly, this beautiful bigcone Douglas-fir was destroyed.

Poison oak along the Rim Trail.
Poison oak along the Rim Trail.

Poodle-dog bush marks the stretches of trail burned in the Bobcat Fire. With care, it was generally avoidable, as was the abundant poison oak found on some sections of the trail. (Like poison oak, Poodle-dog bush causes a rash in many people.)

On the way down the Rim Trail, I’d debated which route to take from Newcomb Pass. One option was to run over to Newcomb Saddle and take Rincon-Redbox Road to West Fork. Another was to follow the Gabrielino Trail to Devore Camp and then West Fork. The single-track route through Devore Camp is a more interesting option and is usually my choice.

Trailwork on the Rim Trail near Newcomb Pass.
Trailwork on the Rim Trail near Newcomb Pass.

As I neared Newcomb Pass, I was surprised to see recent trailwork on the isolated stretch of trail. This was a hopeful sign the Gabrielino Trail between Newcomb Pass and Devore Camp might be in decent shape.

At Newcomb Pass, all signs of any trailwork ended. I looked at the first few overgrown yards of the trail connecting to Newcomb Saddle and thought, “I’ll give the Gabrielino Trail a try.” I could see an ill-defined path where the Gabrielino Trail should go and tried to follow it. No go. A lower path also appeared to be a dead end.

I enjoy the challenge of following little-used trails, but today was more interested in running than bushwhacking. Retracing my steps, I returned to the trail connecting to Newcomb Saddle.

Newly installed downslope drain blocking access to the Gabrielino Trail from Rincon-Redbox Road.
Newly installed downslope drain blocking access to the Gabrielino Trail

It wasn’t as bad as I initially thought. The trail was a bit overgrown, but was on an old roadbed and pretty easy to follow. (Later, I discovered I had a bite from a larval tick, which I’m sure I picked up in the Newcomb Pass area.)

Rincon-Redbox Road was wide open and in great shape. When I reached the point where the Gabrielino Trail crosses the road, neither direction on the trail looked particularly promising. Up the trail looked overgrown, and down the trail was blocked by a newly constructed drainage conduit. The Gabrielino Trail is a National Recreation Trail in a National Monument, so should (hopefully) be fully restored.

Jose and Gary cleaning debris underneath a log on the Gabrielino Trail near West Fork.
Jose and Gary cleaning debris underneath a log on the Gabrielino Trail near West Fork.

Running down Rincon-Redbox Road and lost in thought, I was somewhat startled to see a red truck round a bend. I was even more surprised when it turned out to be race director and trailmaster Gary Hilliard. Gary and Jose were out the weekend before the AC100 trying to chase down a couple of logs — one reported to be blocking access to the Newcomb Saddle aid station and another on the Gabrielino Trail “a half-mile from West Fork.”

I’ve had the privilege of running in all of Gary’s ANFTR/Mt. Disappointment races. No one works harder or is more dedicated to the trails of Angeles National Forest and trail running. I didn’t recall a log blocking the road, but it would only take Gary a few minutes to drive up to the aid station and be sure. With cruise control on and lost in thought, I continued running down to West Fork.

At West Fork, I stopped at “the pipe” to get water and cool off. From here, it’s a memorable 5-mile, 2600′ climb to the top of the Kenyon Devore Trail.

Kenyon Devore Trail on Mt. Wilson
Kenyon Devore Trail

I’d been here two weeks before. The Rim Trail – Newcomb Saddle – Kenyon Devore Loop is the mirror image of the Mt. Wilson – Red Box – Kenyon Devore Loop. Two weeks ago it was around 10 degrees warmer and humid. I’d bonked on the climb, and wasn’t looking to repeat that experience today.

This morning – except for a couple of rattlesnakes – the run from West Fork couldn’t have gone better! I even jogged some of the less steep sections of the Kenyon Devore Trail!

Here’s a high-resolution, interactive, 3D-terrain view of the Rim Trail – Newcomb Saddle – Kenyon Devore Loop. The Gabrielino Trail option through Devore Camp is also shown.

Some related posts:
A Place to Ponder Things Near and Far
A Morning Thunderstorm, Debris-Covered Trail, Fast-Paced Fire Road, and Tough Climb on the ANFTR 25K Course!
Running Mt. Wilson’s Rim Trail
GSU Mt. Wilson CHARA Telescope Array

Doveweed Sunrise

Doveweed sunrise. Photography by Gary Valle'

Doveweed (Croton setiger) on Lasky Mesa in Upper Las Virgenes Canyon Open Space Preserve (Ahmanson Ranch).

Despite it’s weed-like appearance, doveweed is native to California. The plant is also known as turkey mullein.

Related post: Satwiwa Doveweed

Track of a Big Rattlesnake in Upper Las Virgenes Canyon Open Space Preserve (Ahmanson Ranch)

Track of a Big Rattlesnake in Upper Las Virgenes Canyon Open Space Preserve (Ahmanson Ranch)

This is the largest Southern Pacific Rattlesnake track I’ve seen in 20+ years of running at Upper Las Virgenes Canyon Open Space Preserve (Ahmanson Ranch) — or anywhere else.

The rattlesnake that made this track looks like it was larger than this Southern Pacific Rattlesnake, photographed at Ahmanson Ranch in April 2010.

Some related posts:
Big Southern Pacific Rattlesnake at Ahmanson Ranch
Ahmanson Trailhead Rattlesnake
Southern Pacific Rattlesnake

A Morning Thunderstorm, Debris-Covered Trail, Fast-Paced Fire Road, and Tough Climb on the ANFTR 25K Course!

The canyon of the West Fork San Gabriel RIver and Rincon-Red Box Road from the Mt. Disappointment/Bill Riley Trail.
The ANFTR courses follow Rincon-Red Box Road down this rugged canyon to West Fork.

As I drove east on the 210 Freeway, a long bolt of lightning erupted from high in the clouds and pierced the valley below. The thunderstorm near Mt. Lukens looked spectacular. It was backlit by the rising sun, and intermittent lightning flashed against its dark gray clouds.

Theoretically, I was headed to Mt. Wilson. It was July. It was hot. It was time to get on the ANFTR/Mt. Disappointment race course! But was that going to be a good idea? A slight chance of a thunderstorm was forecast for the afternoon and already there was an active storm right in front of me.

Clouds over Mt. Lowe (left), Mt. Markham, Occidental Peak, and San Gabriel Peak. (thumbnail)
Clouds over Mt. Lowe (left), Mt. Markham, Occidental Peak, and San Gabriel Peak.

The Angeles National Forest Trail Races (aka Mt. Disappointment) is a popular event usually run in the heat of Summer after the Fourth of July. Because of the pandemic, Bobcat Fire, and trail and road closures, the race has been on hiatus since 2020, but a new race date appears to be in the works!

Another ragged bolt flashed horizontally across the clouds. The cell looked isolated and appeared to be moving to the north. I decided to take a chance and bet that the morning storm was a quirk. Still, it suggested a real possibility of a thunderstorm later in the day.

About the time I passed Trail Canyon on Big Tujunga Canyon Road, it started to rain, and the rain continued much of the way to Red Box. The activity was actually more extensive than the cell near Mt. Lukens — a band of thunderstorms had swept through the San Gabriel Mountains between Mt. Lukens and Mt. Wilson.

Running down still wet Mt. Wilson Road following a morning thunderstorm. (thumbnail)
Running down still wet Mt. Wilson Road following a morning thunderstorm.

Mt. Wilson Road was still wet as I started down the first leg of the ANFTR/Mt. Disappointment 60K/50K/25K courses. If you have to run on pavement, running downhill on super-scenic Mt. Wilson Road after a thunderstorm is about as good as it gets! The cleansed atmosphere and vivid smells in the wake of the storm were remarkable — as were the views down into the canyon of the West Fork San Gabriel River.

This morning, I was doing the 25K course, but all the distances follow the same route to Red Box. They start by running down Mt. Wilson Road to Eaton Saddle and then following Mt. Lowe Fire Road through Mueller Tunnel to Markham Saddle and the San Gabriel Peak Trail. The San Gabriel Peak Trail leads up to the Mt. Disappointment service road and, surprisingly, the high point of the 60K/50K/25K courses. This stretch of service road is higher than the start/finish on Mt. Wilson!

Cuttings from a forest-thinning project blocking the Mt. Disappointment/Bill Riley Trail. (thumbnail)
Cuttings from a forest-thinning project blocking the Mt. Disappointment/Bill Riley Trail.

Even if you have run a trail many, many times — and think you’re familiar with it — sooner or later, you’re going to encounter something you didn’t expect. From the Mt. Disappointment service road, the ANFTR/Mt. Disappointment courses turn onto the Mt. Disappointment/Bill Riley Trail. After the first couple of switchbacks, there were an increasing number of cut limbs on the trail. Initially, the cuttings were not much of an issue, but became worse as I continued down the trail.

Partway down, I encountered two very upset hikers who had lost the trail. They had just decided to leave the trail and hike on the service road. They cautioned me that the section where they had problems was just below. They weren’t kidding. I’ve done this trail innumerable times and at one point also had difficulty locating it. I had to wade through an expanse of cuttings to stay on the trail.

I’ve been on trails impacted by forest thinning projects before. The crews that worked on those projects at least made an effort to keep the trails clear. No such attempt was made here — the cuttings were left where they fell, and if that was on the trail, too bad!

It was a relief to get off the Mt. Disappointment/Bill Riley Trail and down to Mt. Wilson Road and Red Box.

The towers on Mt. Wilson -- where the car is parked -- from Rincon-Redbox Road. (thumbnail)
The towers on Mt. Wilson – where the car is parked – from Rincon-Redbox Road.

Unlike last year, Rincon-Red Box Road was in great shape. It was so well-graded that a Prius might have been able to drive down to West Fork. Much of the 5.5 miles down to West Fork are in full sun, so the temperature has a substantial impact. In the 2019 ANFTR/Mt. Disappointment 50K, the thermometer on my pack read about 80 degrees. In the 2017 50K, the temp on the same stretch was about 100 degrees. Today, it was around 90.

Whatever the temperature, there are excellent views down the West Fork and of the Mt. Wilson area. The towers on Mt. Wilson always look tantalizingly close, and the climb up Strayns Canyon doesn’t look that bad. (Ha!) Like last year, there were four or five creek-like crossings of the West Fork San Gabriel River.

The area around the spring at West Fork was a bit overgrown, but a trampled path through the grass below the cistern led to the outflow pipe. I refilled my hydration pack and drank my fill before setting off on the Gabrielino Trail. With the temperature in the sun at West Fork around 95, I should have spent more time at the spring cooling down.

Gabrielino Trail sign at West Fork. (thumbnail)
Gabrielino Trail sign at West Fork.

It’s only about 1.6 miles from the spring to where the Kenyon Devore Trail forks left off the Gabrielino Trail, but it often seems longer. Probably because I’m anticipating the turnoff and don’t want to miss it. This morning, it was also the hottest stretch on the course, with the temperature in the sun topping out at around 100 degrees.

Based on some recent runs, I expected the Poodle-dog bush on this stretch to be a problem, but most of the Poodle-dog bush had been trimmed or was wilting. It wasn’t the only thing that was wilting. Shortly after turning off the Gabrielino Trail and onto the Kenyon Devore Trail, the combination of heat and humidity hit me like the proverbial brick. I had to back off the pace.

Not long after that, I was startled by a runner coming up behind me. It turned out to be another runner from the West San Fernando Valley! Charlie was training for UTMB and putting in a tough 27-mile, 8700′ gain day. We had a great conversation about races, running, and adventures in the mountains. Despite the heat, he was moving well and soon disappeared up the trail.

Dome of the Hooker 100 inch Telescope on Mt. Wilson. (thumbnail)
It’s about a half-mile to the top of the Kenyon Devore Trail!

I continued chugging up the trail, noting familiar features as I climbed higher and higher. Eventually, the white dome of the Hooker 100 inch Telescope came into view, and I knew I just about done!

As I worked up the final half-mile of trail, I could see only a couple of  isolated build-ups of cumulus clouds. One was over the desert  and the other was to the east near San Gorgonio.  The sky over Mt. Wilson was mostly clear.

Here’s a high-resolution, interactive, 3D-terrain view of the Mt. Wilson – Red Box – West Fork – Kenyon Devore Loop. The loop is a slightly shorter version of the ANFTR/Mt. Disappointment 25K.

Some related posts:
After the Bobcat Fire: Running the ANFTR 25K Course
An ANFTR/Mt. Disappointment 2020 Adventure

Fog, Flowers and an Ingenious Spider on the Trippet Ranch Loop

Ingenuity meets Opportunity. Photography by Gary Valle.
Ingenuity meets Opportunity

In their forecast discussion for today, the NWS Los Angeles Oxnard commented, “A long-lasting and extreme heatwave will continue across the region, and especially the interior…” The high temperature was expected to range from 105 to 115 across the interior valleys, mountains and deserts.

Indian pink, golden yarrow, and California everlasting along the Garapito Trail.
Indian pink, golden yarrow, and California everlasting.

I was doing the Trippet Ranch Loop from the Top of Reseda. The highs on the San Fernando Valley side of the Santa Monica Mountains were expected to be in the 90s. But keep in mind that’s essentially the temperature in the shade. In full sun, the temperature could be 10 to 15 degrees higher. When I reached the Hub, at 7:00 in the morning the in-the-sun temperature was already around 90 degrees.

Nearer the coast, temps were expected to be a little cooler. From the Hub, I could see why. A shallow marine layer had developed along the coast. A couple of miles later, as I neared Trippet Ranch, I descended into a bank of wonderfully cool fog. It wouldn’t last, but I enjoyed the coolness as I continued down to Trippet Ranch and around to the Musch Trail.

I hadn’t run very far on the Musch Trail when I came across a remarkable spider web. The spider had ingeniously bowed a flexible stalk of tall grass to build its web. This solution avoided having to span the web between two stalks. I also wondered if the added tension would make the web more efficient.

At Musch Camp, I topped off my water bottle and then continued working up the trail. Near a still-seeping vernal creek, a speckled-orange Humboldt lily bloomed brightly in a patch of poison oak.

Plummer's mariposa lily along the Garapito Trail. (thumbnail)
Plummer’s mariposa lily along the Garapito Trail

From the camp, the Musch Trail climbs about 400′, in a bit over a mile, to the junction of Eagle Rock and Eagle Springs Fire Roads. A left turn here leads past Eagle Rock to the top of the Garapito Trail.

Other than the Bent Arrow Trail—which remains closed—the Garapito Trail is the “End of Reseda” trail most impacted by our back-to-back wet rain seasons. At times, washouts, debris flows, slides, fallen trees, and vigorously growing chaparral plants have made the trail nearly impassable. The Santa Monica Mountains Task Force worked tirelessly over the Winter to restore the trail.

Of course, the rain that caused all the problems on the Garapito Trail has also resulted in numerous wildflowers along that trail. Today, some of the most prominent were scarlet larkspur, scarlet monkeyflower, Indian pink, and Plummer’s mariposa lily. And, Garapito Creek was still trickling in July!

This high-resolution, interactive, 3-D terrain view shows the Trippet Ranch Loop (yellow). The track of the closed Bent Arrow Trail is shown in red.

Some related posts:
Trippet Ranch Loop, Musch and Garapito Trails – February 2024
Trippet Ranch Loop Plus Temescal Peak and Temescal Lookout
Fogbow Near the Top of Hell Hill in Pt. Mugu State Park