Category Archives: backbone trail

Missing Wildflowers, More Mountain Lion Tracks, and the Serrano Canyon Landslide

Cirrus clouds and Boney Mountain's western rim from the Old Boney Trail

As I worked up the Old Boney Trail, I looked for anything blooming. The empty seed pods from last year’s bigpod Ceanothus bloom were still present on many plants, but not a flower was in sight.

Lack of rain will do that. Although today’s run was after Southern California finally received some rain, the first few months of the rain season had been ridiculously dry. From July 1, 2024, to January 24,2025, Downtown Los Angeles recorded only 0.16 inch of rain — tying 1962-1963 for the driest start to the Rain Year on record.

Purple nightshade along the Old Boney Trail (thumbnail)
Purple nightshade – just about the only early bloomer on 20+ miles of trail.

Over the 20+ miles of trail that I would run today, the only conspicuous wildflower was this purple nightshade along the Old Boney Trail. Ceanothus, paintbrush, milkmaids, phlox, poppy, and other early-blooming species might be seen in normal or wet years.

Very early in the run, I came across some disturbing tracks on the Old Boney Trail. I first saw them on Danielson Road, and they continued on Old Boney all the way to Blue Canyon. From the tracks, I could see they powered directly up the hills and sped through the straightaways.

Usually, when I do the long climb out of Upper Sycamore on the Old Boney Trail, it’s to do the Western Ridge (Mountaineer’s Route) on Boney Mountain. This morning, the combination of crags, clouds, and early morning light on Boney Mountain looked especially inviting. I almost turned up the use trail that ascends the ridge. Resisting the impulse, I continued on the Old Boney Trail — past the Fossil, Blue Canyon, and Chamberlain Trails — to the Serrano Valley Trail and Serrano Valley.

Serrano Valley - February 2025 (thumbnail)
Serrano Valley – February 2025

It had been over a year since I’d been to Serrano Valley. It is one of the prettiest spots in the Santa Monica Mountains. It has a “big sky” feel that I always enjoy. When combined with a run down Serrano Canyon, the experience is exceptional.

One of the interesting things to see in Serrano Canyon is a large landslide scar on the north side of the canyon, about a half-mile from Sycamore Canyon. The trail goes over the foot of the slide. Some boulders near the trail contain fossils, similar to those found on the Fossil Trail.

As the landslide scar came into view, something had changed — there was a “new” rockslide in the middle of the old landslide scar. When I stopped to take a photo, I could hear rocks and debris trickling down the slope. This suggested the slide was still active and might be very recent. When did it happen?

New rockslide on an old landslide scar in Serrano Canyon (thumbnail)
New rockslide on an old landslide scar in Serrano Canyon.

The last time I’d photographed the landslide scar was in February 2022. At that time, this new rockslide hadn’t occurred. I also checked Google Earth. The most recent Google Earth imagery of the landslide scar was from April 21, 2023. It didn’t show the rockslide. Then I checked Sentinel 2 satellite imagery, but that wasn’t high enough resolution to determine the date of the rockslide. High resolution imagery of a relatively small, non-urban area would be required, and it would need to have been taken after April 21, 2023.

After failing to find a suitable image using various services that provide free or low cost imagery, I contacted the Vexcel Data Program. They were kind enough to provide an answer — the new rockslide was not in imagery from September 23, 2023, but was present in an image from October 12, 2023.

The new rockslide occurred about 16 months ago, a month or two after Tropical Storm Hilary  passed through Southern California. For the 24-hour period  ending at noon on August 21, 2023, the weather station at nearby Circle X Ranch recorded  about 3.9 inches of rain.

While searching for imagery of the landslide scar, I stumbled onto UCSB Library’s collection of aerial photography. It contains more than 2.5 million images dating back to the 1920s. Curious to see the quality of the photos, I picked a 1:12,000 scale image from November 1936 that was more or less centered on the landslide scar. The quality of the image is excellent — but where was the landslide? I had assumed the Serrano Canyon Landslide to be an ancient feature. How old is it?

Serrano Canyon Landslide 1947 and 1961 (thumbnail)
Serrano Canyon before the landslide (1947) compared to after (1961). Click!

The most recent image I could find without the landslide was from August 1947. The most recent image of the landslide was from October 1959 but it doesn’t show the landslide clearly. The oldest the landslide could be is about 77 years!

The event did not go unnoticed. This 1:16,000 scale aerial photo from February 1961 shows a well-used road going to the landslide. Vehicles are parked at the end of the road and there is activity at the landslide. Here is a before and after comparison of the 1947 and 1961 photos.

Continuing down Serrano Canyon, I stopped at Sycamore Canyon to get some water and decide where I was headed next. Option A was to turn south on Sycamore Canyon Road, go up the Fireline Trail to Overlook Fire Road, and then return to Wendy Drive via Hell Hill, Wood Canyon, Two Foxes, Sycamore Canyon, and Upper Sycamore. Including what I’d already done, that would be about 24 miles. Option B was to turn north on Sycamore Canyon Road and go directly to the Two Foxes Trail, etc. That would be about 20 miles.

Mountain lion tracks along Sycamore Canyon Fire Road, Pt Mugu State Park (thumbnail)
Mountain lion tracks along Sycamore Canyon Fire Road

Today, I opted for Option B. That turned out to be an exciting choice. Just before the turn onto Wood Canyon, there was a sequence of mountain lion tracks along the east side of Sycamore Canyon Road. To better show its size, I superimposed the track on top of my shoe. The shoe is about 4.5 inches wide at the center of the track. There were also deer tracks along the road.

Here is a high resolution, interactive, 3D terrain view of the Old Boney – Serrano Valley Loop from Wendy Drive. Two options are shown. The map can be zoomed, tilted, rotated, and panned. To change the view, use the control on the upper right side of the screen. Track and placename locations are approximate and subject to errors. Poor weather, and other conditions may make this route unsuitable for this activity.

Some related posts:
Back on the Old Boney and Serrano Valley Trails
Old Boney to Serrano Valley, Plus Fireline and Overlook

Boney Mountain Rocks and Clouds

Boney Mountain Rocks and Clouds

Emerging from the clouds on a recent run from Wendy Drive that included climbing Boney Mountain’s Western Ridge — aka the Mountaineer’s Route.

Once up the ridge, the run continued to Sandstone Peak, and then returned to the Wendy Drive Trailhead via the Backbone Trail, Sycamore Canyon, and the Upper Sycamore Trail.

Here’s a high resolution, interactive, 3D-terrain view of a GPS track of the route, along with some variations.

Some related posts:
Looking for Boney Mountain
Sunrise Over Boney Mountain
Not So Busy Sandstone Peak
Tri-Peaks, Sandstone Peak and the Backbone Trail

Rock Formations Near the Top of Saddle Peak

Rock formations above are near the top of Saddle Peak, in the Santa Monica Mountains, near Los Angeles.

The rock formations above are near the top of Saddle Peak, in the Santa Monica Mountains, near Los Angeles. Virtually all have been climbed, and climbers will be seen on Corpse Wall (photo center) most weekends.

I took the photo while doing the Topanga Lookout Ridge Loop. I do the loop clockwise from the trailhead on Stunt Road that’s across from the start of Calabasas Peak Mtwy fire road. The bottom of Topanga Lookout Ridge is about three-quarters of a mile up the fire road.

A use trail ascends the ridge. The easiest route requires a little straightforward scrambling but bypasses the more exposed climbing on the crest of the ridge. There are four or five optional segments where the rocky crest can be followed instead of the use trail.

Here’s a high resolution, interactive, 3D-terrain view of my GPS track of the Topanga Lookout Ridge Loop, including a side trip to Saddle Peak.

Related post: Topanga Lookout Loop, Plus Saddle Peak

Sunrise Over Boney Mountain

Sunrise over Boney Mountain in Point Mugu State Park

As I reached the benchmark on the top of the first hill on Boney’s western ridge, the sun creeped over the crest of Boney Mountain.

It had taken me about an hour to reach the benchmark from the Wendy Drive trailhead. It would take another hour to scramble up the ridge to the high point on the crest (unofficially “Boney Point”), and then another hour to work over Tri Peaks to the Backbone Trail and the summit of Sandstone Peak.

La Jolla Valley, Anacapa, and Santa Cruz Island from Boney Mountain (thumbnail)
La Jolla Valley, Anacapa, and Santa Cruz Island from Boney Mountain

From the crest there were splendid views of Sandstone Peak, Tri Peaks, and the Channel Islands. Captivated by the vista, my thoughts drifted to a trail run on Santa Cruz Island, where I had enjoyed the reciprocal view of Boney Mountain from El Montañon.

Once again, I got to the summit of Sandstone when no one was on the peak. After recording a video panorama from the summit, I scrambled back down the peak and then headed west on the Backbone Trail to the top of the Chamberlain Trail. Boney Bluff looms above the trail here and marks the beginning of the long descent to the Old Boney Trail.

On the way down Chamberlain, I talked to a hiker that was also doing an adventurous loop from the Wendy Drive Trailhead. At the top of the Chamberlain Trail he was planning to take the Tri Peaks Trail to Tri Peaks, and then work over to “Boney Point.” From there, he was going to descend the Lost Cabin Trail.

Western escarpment of Boney Mountain from the Chamberlain segment of the Backbone Trail
Western escarpment of Boney Mountain

At the bottom of the Chamberlain Trail I turned right on the Old Boney Trail and continued down to Blue Canyon. I hadn’t been through Blue Canyon since January and was curious to see how it fared after all the rainy season storms. The canyon is filled with rocky debris from millennia of flash floods. Flooding in the canyon sometimes obliterates sections of the Backbone Trail. Today, it looked like use and trailwork had reestablished washed out sections of the meandering trail.

Here’s a high resolution, interactive, 3D-terrain view of my route from Wendy Drive to Sandstone Peak and return via the Backbone Trail, Sycamore Canyon, and the Upper Sycamore Trail.

Some related posts:
Not So Busy Sandstone Peak
Looking for Boney Mountain
Looking for Boney Peak
Looking for Boney Bluff

Encinal Canyon – Mishe Mokwa Loop – Sandstone Peak Running Adventure

Tri Peaks from the Mishe Mokwa Trail. Photography by Gary Valle'.
Tri Peaks from the Mishe Mokwa Trail.

I enjoy doing trail runs with an added element of adventure, exploration, or quirkiness. A run might climb a peak, look for a particular wildflower, or check out a rock formation, a creek, or an old trail. The possibilities are endless.

Whenever I’ve done the out-and-back trail run from Encinal Canyon to Mishe Mokwa, I’ve thought about extending it to Sandstone Peak. Doing so would add the ascent of the highest peak in the Santa Monica Mountains to an already excellent run. Even better, I could run from Encinal Canyon to Mishe Mokwa, do the Mishe Mokwa Loop — including Sandstone Peak — then run back to Encinal Canyon. That would be an exceptionally scenic 26+ miles, with much of it on the Backbone Trail.

An advantage to doing the run this Spring is that back-to-back wet rain seasons have recharged the area’s streams, and I would (theoretically) be able to get water from a creek on the Mishe Mokwa Trail. Another plus is that all the rain has resulted in historic conditions, with extraordinary displays of a variety of wildflowers.

Pond along the Backbone Trail, surrounded by deerweed, black sage. (thumbnail)
Pond along the Backbone Trail, surrounded by deerweed, black sage.

The day dawned overcast and cool, a deep marine layer covering most of the area. I was running west on the Backbone Trail between Encinal Canyon and Mishe Mokwa. The weather could not have been better for the initial 10+ miles of what I hoped to be a challenging and enjoyable run.

Along the way, I marveled at the explosion of wildflowers along the Backbone Trail. In addition to the extensive bloom of deerweed, pitcher sage, black sage, canyon sunflower and purple nightshade lined the trail.

About 8 miles into the run, as the Backbone Trail crossed the west shoulder of Triunfo Peak, a new trail sign had been posted. It marked the recently completed trail connecting the Backbone Trail to Yellow Hill Fire Road and the top of Triunfo Peak. The new trail replaces a use trail that had evolved here, and expands the route choices when running or hiking in the area.

Canyon live-forever on the rocks below Mishe Mokwa. (thumbnail)
Canyon live-forever on the rocks below Mishe Mokwa.

It was still overcast as I ran through the little valley below Mishe Mokwa. Above, I could see the Backbone Trail winding up toward Sandstone Peak and into the clouds. There was a colorful selection of wildflowers along the trail, including speckled Clarkia, canyon live-forever, yellow monkeyflower, woolly blue-curls, and others.

I had planned to make a go-no-go decision at Mishe Mokwa, but something in me had already made that decision miles ago.

When I reached Mishe Mokwa, I didn’t stop. I jogged across Yerba Buena Road and started hiking up the Mishe Mokwa Trail. It was still cool and my legs felt surprisingly good. The only question was: Would the creek at Split Rock actually be running?

Having run the Mishe Mokwa – Sandstone Peak Loop on other adventures, and climbed at Echo Cliffs, I was familiar with the trails. The 6+ mile loop from the Mishe Mokwa parking area is one of the most scenic short loops in the Santa Monica Mountains and deservingly popular.

Golden yarrow along the Mishe Mokwa Trail. (thumbnail)
Golden yarrow along the Mishe Mokwa Trail.

The Mishe Mokwa Trail traverses the rocky slopes directly across the canyon from Echo Cliffs and Balance Rock. The dramatic rock formations are so close that climbers can be heard conversing as they climb the steep faces. This stretch of trail is demanding and has a few steep steps— up and down — that have to be navigated.

As I worked past Echo Cliffs, I passed a large group of hikers that had stopped to enjoy the view from the top of a prominent outcrop.

Earlier, I’d encountered a runner coming down the trail, and he’d been pessimistic about using the creek as a water source. But the burbling sound echoing in the canyon below me left little doubt that the creek was running.

A wildflower-lined section of the Mishe Mokwa Trail near Echo Cliffs. (thumbnail)
A wildflower-lined section of the Mishe Mokwa Trail near Echo Cliffs.

It seemed everyone on the trail converged at Split Rock. When I arrived, one large group was already taking a break there, and by the time I finished getting water, another group joined them.

As a water source, the creek was a bit funky. I debated skipping it but thought of a friend’s comments regarding water sources on the Arizona Trail. How bad could it be? The drainage below Tri Peaks is relatively isolated and there are no cattle. At least, that’s how I rationalized it.

With the cool conditions, I only needed about a half-liter of water. And, of course, a little way up the trail, there was another — probably better — water source. I briefly debated dumping my water and refilling, but decided to continue.

At Split Rock, the character of the trail changes. It becomes much more straightforward as it gains elevation, passes below Tri Peaks, joins the Backbone Trail, and circles around to Sandstone Peak.

After being cloudy for most of the run, skies cleared while I was on Sandstone Peak. (thumbnail)
After being cloudy for most of the run, skies cleared while I was on Sandstone Peak.

Given the number of people on the Mishe Mokwa and Backbone Trails, I expected the top of Sandstone Peak to be a busy place. But the timing worked out perfectly — only two people were on the summit. Most of the clouds had cleared, revealing Sandstone Peak’s superb views.

Since I did the loop counterclockwise, the return to the Mishe Mokwa parking area from Sandstone Peak was much shorter (and steeper) than the trails to get there. Bush lupine lined the road; its unique fragrance and vibrant color a treat for the senses.

Damaged section of the Backbone Trail above Mishe Mokwa. May 2024. (thumbnail)
Damaged section of the Backbone Trail above Mishe Mokwa

Partway down, the shoulder of the trail had collapsed in a slide. It had been temporarily stabilized with a large white sheet of plastic that must have been visible from miles away. Continuing the descent, I took great care not to miss the turn onto the connector to the Mishe Mokwa Trail. At this point in the run, I didn’t want to do any “bonus mileage!”

The return from Mishe Mokwa to Encinal Canyon is a bit of a blur. Everyone I encountered on the trail — and particularly the mountain bikers — were super-cool, several offering a quick high-five as they passed. The encouragement must have helped — my time returning to the Encinal Canyon Trailhead was faster by a few minutes than the time going out!

This interactive 3-D terrain view shows my GPS track of the Encinal Canyon – Mishe Mokwa Loop – Sandstone Peak Running Adventure. The map can be zoomed, tilted, rotated, and panned. It is initially zoomed in on the Mishe Mokwa loop.

And BTW, even though it was a cool day, I was nearly out of water when I got back to Encinal. It took a little time to purify the water from the creek but having the additional water helped. So far, no obvious problems have resulted.

Some related posts:
Encinal Canyon to Mishe Mokwa Out and Back Trail Run
Encinal Canyon to Triunfo Peak
Balance Rock
Mishe Mokwa – Sandstone Peak – Grotto Trail Run

Deerweed Carpets Hills and Canyons in the Santa Monica Mountains

Deerweed (Acmispon glaber) blooming near the Encinal Canyon Trailhead of the Backbone Trail. May 2024.
Deerweed (Acmispon glaber) blooming near the Encinal Canyon Trailhead of the Backbone Trail.

A deerweed superbloom has emerged in the western Santa Monica Mountains this May, covering hillsides with a multitude of small yellow flowers.

The extensive bloom is occurring near the end of a two-year period that is the wettest in Los Angeles in over a century.