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Bigcone ENSO Prediction, Poodle-dog Bush Blues, and a Surprise on Kenyon Devore

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Morning sun on the dome of the Mt. Wilson Observatory

I’d paused to rinse my arms and legs, hoping to wash away at least a little of the poison oak and Poodle-dog bush I’d been unable to avoid. I was at a small spring part way up the Kenyon Devore Trail, doing a variation of a loop that my son and I had done a year before.

Today’s run had started on the top of Mt. Wilson, descended the Rim Trail to Newcomb Pass then followed the Gabrielino Trail down to the Rincon – Red Box Road. This year instead of taking the forest road down to West Fork, I stayed on the Gabrielino Trail and descended to Devore Camp, and then worked back upstream on the Gabrielino Trail past West Fork to the Kenyon Devore Trail.



Driving up the Mt. Wilson Road I’d noticed that many of the bigcone Douglas-firs were heavily laden with cones. According to the Forest Service’s Silvics Manual bigcone Douglas-firs don’t often have bumper crops. Why now, following two subpar rain seasons, the most recent of which was unusually dry? Was the tree’s evolutionary knowledge playing the odds that a wet period of Southern California’s wet/dry ENSO cycle is a Winter or two away? At the moment La Nina or Neutral conditions look more likely this coming Winter, but the odds for El Nino could increase for the Winter of 2014-15.

Update June 25, 2018. El Nino conditions did emerge in late Fall 2014 and continued until the Spring of 2016. However, the drought in Southern California persisted and below average precipitation was recorded in both 2014-15 and 2015-16. It wasn’t until the 2016-17 rain season (during a weak La Nina) that Southern California received above average precipitation.



Like last year there was plenty of poison oak and Poodle-dog bush along the Rim and Gabrielino Trails. The poison oak was about the same as last year — mostly but not entirely avoidable — but the Poodle-dog seemed worse. I’d hoped that this year’s much lower than average rainfall would suppress the growth of Poodle-dog bush, but if anything it seemed more robust. Poodle-dog had overgrown the trail in several spots, its long stalks and sticky leaves overlapping the trail like a gauntlet of pikes. Contact was unavoidable.



It had been interesting to visit Devore Camp. The last time I’d been there was in March 2003 when Gary Gunder and I paddled from the West Fork San Gabriel River from West Fork to Hwy 39. We had been fortunate to be able to paddle the reach with few portages. With all the downed trees from the Station Fire it may be many years before big storms flush the river channel to point it can be paddled without logs being a constant problem.



In addition to the expanses of Poodle-dog bush blossoms, a number of other wildflowers were in bloom, including Grinnell’s beardtongue, rose snapdragon, blackberry, pink, paintbrush, bush poppy, buckwheat, gilia, Keckiella and others. Along the West Fork the blossoms of spotted Humboldt’s lilies had beamed like yellow-orange paper lanterns scattered throughout an immense garden.

I cannot ascend the Kenyon Devore Trail without thinking about the Mt. Disappointment 50K/50M. During those races the little spring I was at now had always been a welcome source of “extra” water on the final climb to Mt. Wilson. The 2013 races have been cancelled, but are expected to return in 2014. We all know how tough R.D. Gary Hilliard is and look forward to next year’s race!

“Hey, are you on a trail?”

The voice seemed to come from nowhere. I looked to my left and right, but the trail was empty.

“Hey, up here!”



What the… I scanned the STEEP slopes above the creek, but still had a hard time locating the voice. After a moment of rustling, a helmeted figure emerged from the trees, carrying an orange mountain bike.

If you’ve done the Kenyon Devore Trail as part of the Mt. Disappointment races or at another time you probably recall the slippery stream crossing with the chain. The MTBer had apparently missed a switchback about a mile up the trail and descended directly down a ridge to the spring.

Update Friday, June 21, 2013. Lucked out with the Poodle-dog bush* and poison oak! Just one small spot of irritation on the top of an ankle, and it’s already almost gone.

*The taxonomic name for Turricula parryi (Poodle-dog bush) has changed to Eriodictyon parryi. The Jepson Manual: Vascular Plants of California, Second Edition (2012) has returned Turricula to the genus Eriodictyon, as originally described by Gray. According to the Wikipedia entry for Turricula (April 11, 2012), “… molecular phylogenetic analysis carried out by Ferguson (1998) confirms that Turricula should be treated as a separate genus within a clade (Ferguson does not use the term “subfamily”) that includes Eriodictyon, and also the genera Nama and Wigandia; Eriodictyon is the genus to which Turricula is closest in molecular terms, and is its sister taxon.” I use “Turricula” and “Poodle-dog bush” interchangeably as a common name.

Some related posts: Mt. Wilson Rim Trail – Kenyon Devore Trail Loop, GSU Mt. Wilson CHARA Telescope Array, Why Won’t My Smart Key Work?

nature, nature|trees, photography, photography|landscape, trails, trails|bay area

Coast Redwoods Along the French Trail in Redwood Regional Park

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Coast redwoods along the French Trail in Oakland's Redwood Regional Park.

Coast redwoods are spectacular trees, often growing to more than 200 feet tall. They can attain phenomenal size. According to Famous Redwoods, the tallest is the Hyperion tree in Redwood National Park, with a height over 380 feet. The 2021 National Register of Big Trees lists the Lost Monarch in Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park as the Champion coast redwood. It has a circumference of 950 inches (79.2 feet). There are reports of even larger coast redwoods.

Here’s a Calflora/Google Maps image and live link of the distribution of coast redwoods in California. The southernmost naturally-occurring coast redwoods are in Monterey County, in the Southern Redwood Botanical Area of Los Padres National Forest.

The title photo is of coast redwoods along the French Trail in Oakland’s Redwood Regional Park and is from a hike in mid-May.

Related post: Malibu Creek State Park Coast Redwoods

nature, nature|wildfire, photography, photography|landscape, running, running|adventures, trails, trails|pt mugu state park, weather, weather|southern california

After the Springs Fire: Checking on the Chamberlain Trail

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Rock formations on Boney Mountain from the Chamberlain Trail

It had only been a week since I’d run here, but it was still easy to see recovery in Pt. Mugu State Park was continuing at a steady pace. Along the Hidden Pond, Sin Nombre and Blue Canyon Trails daubs of brilliant green contrasted sharply with the somber tones of black, gray and white left by the Springs Fire.



Hopefully recovery will continue at this pace. Most Southern California fires occur in Autumn, when there is a higher likelihood of rain in the weeks and months following the fire. The Springs Fire started May 2. A late season storm moved through the area May 6, helping firefighters to control the fire. The weather station at Circle X recorded about 0.4 inch of rain that day, but the area might not see that amount of rain again for 6-7 months.

In the coastal mountains the marine layer is also a source of moisture. Many of the area’s plants supplement rainfall by extracting water from the moist air. For example, the scalloped shape and surface of coast live oak leaves, and their spine-toothed margin promote condensation and collection of water. On a foggy day you’ll sometimes see a rain-like pattern on the ground under a live oak tree.



This morning the marine layer was in, and skies were partly to mostly cloudy. This was a good thing. Yesterday (June 1) Pierce College in Woodland Hills set a new high temperature record for the date of 104degF. With the hot weather and low humidity the Powerhouse Fire near Lake Hughes had tripled in size. The switch to an onshore flow would cool temps, increase the humidity, and help firefighters to control that blaze.

Today, in addition to checking on the progress of recovery, I wanted to check on the condition of Chamberlain Trail. The Chamberlain Trail is part of the Backbone Trail and the descent from Boney Mountain one of the best in the Santa Monica Mountains.



Last week, on the way to Serrano Valley, we’d seen that the fire had burned up to trail signs at the junction of the Chamberlain Trail and Old Boney Trail. It had been a close call. Brush at the base of the Chamberlain Trail had been scorched and burned, but the fire had not progressed upslope.

But what you can’t see from the junction is that the fire made a serious run up from Serrano Valley on the south side of Boney Mountain. This can be seen on this Google Earth snapshot of a NASA Landsat Satellite Burn Severity image, but from the image it’s hard to tell if the Chamberlain Trail was overrun or not.

Fortunately only a very short section of the Chamberlain Trail about a 0.4 mile from the Old Boney junction was burned.

Some related posts: A Run Through Pt. Mugu State Park, Springs Fire Burn Severity

nature, nature|wildfire, photography, photography|landscape, running, trails, trails|san gabriels

After the Station Fire: Why is Strawberry Peak Still Closed?

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Update May 29, 2014. According to an Angeles National Forest press release issued May 20, nearly all remaining areas in the Angeles National Forest closed since the 2009 Station Fire were reopened on May 24. Some forest areas remain closed for reasons of public safety or further work needed on trails. In addition to the Colby Trail in the area of Strawberry Peak, the closed areas include Lower Gabrielino Trail (below Bear Canyon Trail), Barley Flats Trail, Ken Burton Trail, Millard Water Fall User Trail, Santa Clara Divide Road (FS3N17), Messenger Flats Campground, Lightning Point Campground, and Big Buck Campground. Check with the Forest Service for the most current information.

Update May 31, 2013. On May 24th Angeles National Forest quietly extended the closure of the 46,194 acre Station Fire Recovery Area through May 24, 2014. No press release or information regarding the rationale for the continued closure was published on the Angeles National Forest web site. A fire closure of this duration and acreage appears to be unprecedented in California and possibly the U.S. Even in the case of the largest California fires, the Cedar and Zaca fires, closed areas in Cleveland and Los Padres National Forests were reopened within a year of the fire. In many cases fire closures in the National Forests and State Parks of California have been lifted within days or weeks of a large fire. This reflects a general policy that closures of public lands should be implemented and maintained only as a last resort.

Update April 16, 2013. Strawberry and Josephine Peaks have now been closed over THREE AND A HALF YEARS. Will Angeles National Forest allow the Station Fire Recovery Area Closure Order to expire on May 24, 2013? Note that none of the trails to the summit of Strawberry Peak are maintained. They are “use” trails — paths that have evolved over time through use. The route to Strawberry’s summit from Red Box is use trail from Lawlor Saddle to the summit; and the routes that ascend the west ridge are use trail above Josephine Saddle. The west ridge also includes some third class rock climbing. It should also be noted there were rescues and other incidents on Strawberry Peak (and in other Forest areas) BEFORE the Station Fire and there will continue to be rescues and incidents. Whether a trail is a good trail or bad trail, accidents can occur and mistakes in judgment can be made. The Forest Service should not keep an area closed without definitive — and supportable — reasons for doing so.

Update May 25, 2012. Today Angeles National Forest reopened about 41,000 acres of the Station Fire closure area south and west of Big Tujunga Dam, and extended the closure of the remaining 46,194 acres to May 24, 2013. Newly opened resources include the Stone Canyon Trail, Trail Canyon Trail, and Delta Flat. Condor Peak also appears to be within the open area. According to the updated Forest Service map of the Station Fire Recovery Area (PDF), Strawberry Peak and Josephine Peak are in the area that remains closed.

As a result of its relatively easy access, panoramic summit view, varied routes and generally mild Winter conditions Strawberry Peak is one of the most frequented summits in the San Gabriel Mountains. At least it used to be until it was closed by the Station Fire. Here we are, more than two and a half years after the Station Fire, and Strawberry Peak, Josephine Peak and Mt. Lawlor are still closed.

Why? The reason might be as arcane as it was simply easier to define the closure boundary as Angeles Crest Highway.

It cannot legitimately be claimed that the area was more damaged by the fire. If anything the damage done by the fire and subsequent flash floods and debris flows was greater on the open (south) side of Angeles Crest Highway — between Switzer Picnic Area and Red Box — rather than on Strawberry Peak.

It cannot be the progress of recovery. I’ve closely followed the recovery of chaparral following several fires. The photographs and other evidence I’ve seen suggest the chaparral on Strawberry Peak is recovering at an absolutely normal pace. I think many would be surprised to see how far it has come. In fact its regrowth now threatens long established paths and trails.

I was under the impression that the route up Strawberry from Red Box was so overgrown and damaged as to be nearly impassable. Apparently that’s not the case. People are doing the peak and based on the reports I’ve read, photos I’ve seen, and firsthand information relayed the trail is in poor condition, but passable with care. There are certainly more hazardous trails and areas in the open areas of Angeles National Forest.

That route from Clear Creek also appears to be passable with care. I’m told there’s absolutely no issue on Josephine fire road. The use trail on the western ridge is a little overgrown, but can generally be followed. Apparently a short section of the ridge below the class 3 section is a bit overgrown with Turricula (Poodle dog bush). A little more use and snip here and a snip there would take care of that.

Restricted use is an important concern. Having seen the condition of several trails immediately after portions of the Station Fire area reopened, and then a year later, it’s clear to me that use is an essential element of trail health. People using a trail help keep it alive. Conscientious  users will pick up litter, remove debris, and do other on-the-go trail maintenance. Use quickly puts the focus on problem areas, and encourages participation when more comprehensive trailwork is done.

With the regrowth of the chaparral well underway we are at a critical point in the preservation of the trails and paths in the Station Fire closure area. They must be reopened to use — not only on Strawberry Peak, but also on popular peaks such as Condor Peak and Mt. Lukins. If we are not allowed to use the trails, the time and work required to restore them could increase to the point that some trails are lost!

The photograph of Strawberry Peak (left) and Mt. Lawlor is from a trail run in September 2011. 

Some related posts: Blue Skies and Short Sleeves on Strawberry Peak, Coincidence, Strawberry Peak Traverse

nature, nature|trees, nature|weather, nature|wildfire, nature|wildlife, photography, photography|landscape, photography|trail running, running, running|adventures, trails, trails|pt mugu state park

After the Springs Fire: A Run Through Pt. Mugu State Park

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New growth in Pt. Mugu State Park following the Springs Fire

As we rounded a corner on the Old Boney Trail, Ann spotted a deer bounding through a thick, unburned section of brush. Its behavior was unusual — the deer was a few hundred yards away and in heavy cover. We soon saw the reason — a large coyote was trailing the animal and probably had been doing so for time.

We were in the middle of a 25 mile Odyssey through Pt. Mugu State Park, about three weeks after the Springs Fire ravaged much of the park’s 14,000 acres.

Already the process of recovery was underway. Tufts of green were sprouting in many areas. Yucca was beginning to regrow and a few yucca scorched in the fire were blooming. In addition to the deer and coyote described above, over the course of the run we would see another deer; fresh raccoon, bobcat, fox and rodent tracks; a lizard, grasshoppers, many birds, a bee’s nest, and fresh mountain lion scat.

Here is a slideshow of some photos from the run.

Some related posts: Springs Fire Burn Severity, Springs Fire 2013

photography, photography|historical, photography|landscape, photography|trail running, running, running|adventures, trails, trails|bay area

San Francisco Sights Trail Run

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Golden Gate Bridge from the Batteries to Bluffs Trail

The Presidio of San Francisco is a favorite of local and visiting runners. One of innumerable route variations, this 7.5 mile run is jam-packed with iconic sights and memorable points of interest.

Brett and I started the run near the Chestnut gate of the Presidio. The first stop was the Letterman Digital Arts Center, the headquarters of Industrial Light and Magic and LucasArts. You can grab a cup of coffee at the Starbucks here, and then stop by the Yoda Fountain. Statues of motion picture pioneer Eadweard Muybridge and TV pioneer Philo T. Farnsworth are also on the grounds.



Circling around to the Letterman complex entrance we returned to the Presidio gate at Lyon & Lombard, which is flanked by two 18th century bronze Spanish cannon. The 6-inch caliber (24-pounder) cannon are marked with the ornate cipher of King Carlos III.  The information imprinted on the breech ring indicates they were cast two days apart in Seville in December 1783. Even older Spanish cannon can be found at the Officers Club and elsewhere in the Presidio.

Turning right (south) we ran a few blocks up Lyon Street to the popular Lyon Street steps. There are two groups of steps, the first set being steeper than the second. One of San Francisco’s most exclusive neighborhoods, Pacific Heights, borders the steps.



If you check online you’ll see counts of the Lyon Street steps ranging from around 241 to 291. Brett & Amanda counted the steps by section on another occasion and counted 63, 62, 46, 60, and 60 steps — for a total of 291 steps. The curb in the middle near the basketball hoop was not counted.

From the top of the Lyon Street stairs we re-entered the Presidio at Broadway, crossed Presidio Blvd, and then continued west along West Pacific Avenue. Wood Line, the first of two Andy Goldsworthy pieces passed on the run, is below West Pacific Avenue and between Lovers Lane and Presidio Blvd.

In about a half-mile we picked up the Bay Area Ridge Trail near the Arguello Gate and the Presidio Golf Course Clubhouse. Although not included on our route today, Inspiration Point is nearby and can be visited using the upper Ecology Trail.



Following the Bay Area Ridge Trail we crossed Arguello Blvd and continued uphill a short distance to Andy Goldsworthy’s Spire. Today Spire pointed into a clear blue sky, but on other days it can be nearly lost in fog. Over time, the young cypress and pine trees surrounding Spire will grow to dominate the skyline and Spire will shrink until it becomes a lost thought from another time.

About a half-mile beyond Spire the northwest-trending Bay Area Ridge Trail turned west, near the connector trail to the National Cemetery Overlook. Following the trail we continued west, past Rob Hill Campground to Washington Blvd. and then joined the Coastal Trail at the Pacific Overlook.

Here the iconic views of the Pacific shoreline and the Golden Gate begin. Taking advantage of the superlative weather, we ran down the Batteries to Bluffs Trail toward Marshall’s Beach and south to Battery Crosby, looping back up to the Coastal Trail and the Pacific Overlook.

The fantastic views continued as we ran north on the Coastal Trail, past Battery Geoffrey and other fortifications that protected the Golden Gate. Running under the Golden Gate Bridge we left the Coastal Trail (which crosses the bridge) and ran down the Battery East stairs to the Golden Gate Promenade.



Not that much bigger than a large container ship, Alcatraz looked like a huge tramp freighter out in the bay, steaming through the morning haze. Already late for breakfast, we tried to keep the pace up as we ran along the Promenade. At Crissy Field I paused for a moment to photograph Huru, one of Mark di Suvero’s huge steel sculptures.

Leaving the shoreline at the marina, we crossed Marina Blvd. One more stop was on our itinerary — the Palace of Fine Arts. Built for the Panama Pacific International Exposition in 1915, and rebuilt in 1965-66, architect Bernard Maybeck’s vision was that of “a Roman ruin, mutilated and overgrown.”

Out of time, I took a few photos and we checked on the nest of the swans Blanche and Blue Boy, residents of the Palace’s lagoon. One swan was on the water, but the nest was empty. Later we learned that four cygnets had hatched just days before.

Here’s a slideshow of some photos from the run. This interactive Cesium browser View shows the GPS track of our route. Here also is a Park Service & Presidio Trust map of the Presidio (PDF).

Some related posts: Spire, Wood Line, Cooler Running, Inspiration Point – Golden Gate Bridge Loop