At first glance you might think there aren’t any wildflowers at Upper Las Virgenes Canyon Open Space Preserve (Ahmanson Ranch). The grasses, mallow, mustard and other invasives tend to crowd them out, but the wildflowers are there.
As seen in the title photo, there are a few nice patches of California poppies. Unless you have a sharp eye, you probably won’t see them from the parking lot. They like warm, west-facing slopes. If it’s early morning or chilly, their blossoms will be tightly furled to protect against the cold.
Red maids is another vibrantly-colored wildflower. Its rose-lavender blossoms stand out from the green of the grasses. Small patches of the flowers can be seen just about anywhere at Ahmanson in late Winter and early Spring.
In a 2013 post, I suggested that the Cistern/Phantom Trailhead on Mulholland Highway might be the best trailhead to start the Bulldog Loop.
More than 10 years and a lot of trail running miles later, I still prefer to do the Bulldog Loop from that trailhead. More than that, most of the trail runs I do in Malibu Creek State Park are from the Cistern/Phantom Trailhead.
There are two key reasons — the scenery is spectacular and the route options endless. Over the past year, I’ve run from the Cistern/Phantom Trailhead a dozen times, on routes ranging from 2 to 23 miles.
Two of those runs were this March. One was on March 9. I’d done the Bulldog Loop several times recently, so the idea was to do a Bulldog-length run, without doing the Bulldog Loop. It was a “follow my nose” run that included Reagan Ranch, Malibou Lake overlook, Crags Road, Tapia Spur Trail, Grasslands Trail, Talepop Trail, Las Virgenes Trail, Liberty Canyon Trail, and Phantom Trail. It turned out to be about 17 miles, with an elevation gain/loss of about 2400′.
I enjoyed that run so much, I came back a week later and did a similar run. But this time the route included the Bulldog Loop. The idea was to use established trails and do the longest loop I could in Malibu Creek State Park, without repeating any part of the route. The run turned out to be about 23 miles, with around 4200′ gain/loss.
As I worked up the Old Boney Trail, I looked for anything blooming. The empty seed pods from last year’s bigpod Ceanothus bloom were still present on many plants, but not a flower was in sight.
Lack of rain will do that. Although today’s run was after Southern California finally received some rain, the first few months of the rain season had been ridiculously dry. From July 1, 2024, to January 24,2025, Downtown Los Angeles recorded only 0.16 inch of rain — tying 1962-1963 for the driest start to the Rain Year on record.
Purple nightshade – just about the only early bloomer on 20+ miles of trail.
Very early in the run, I came across some disturbing tracks on the Old Boney Trail. I first saw them on Danielson Road, and they continued on Old Boney all the way to Blue Canyon. From the tracks, I could see they powered directly up the hills and sped through the straightaways.
Usually, when I do the long climb out of Upper Sycamore on the Old Boney Trail, it’s to do the Western Ridge (Mountaineer’s Route) on Boney Mountain. This morning, the combination of crags, clouds, and early morning light on Boney Mountain looked especially inviting. I almost turned up the use trail that ascends the ridge. Resisting the impulse, I continued on the Old Boney Trail — past the Fossil, Blue Canyon, and Chamberlain Trails — to the Serrano Valley Trail and Serrano Valley.
Serrano Valley – February 2025
It had been over a year since I’d been to Serrano Valley. It is one of the prettiest spots in the Santa Monica Mountains. It has a “big sky” feel that I always enjoy. When combined with a run down Serrano Canyon, the experience is exceptional.
One of the interesting things to see in Serrano Canyon is a large landslide scar on the north side of the canyon, about a half-mile from Sycamore Canyon. The trail goes over the foot of the slide. Some boulders near the trail contain fossils, similar to those found on the Fossil Trail.
As the landslide scar came into view, something had changed — there was a “new” rockslide in the middle of the old landslide scar. When I stopped to take a photo, I could hear rocks and debris trickling down the slope. This suggested the slide was still active and might be very recent. When did it happen?
New rockslide on an old landslide scar in Serrano Canyon.
The last time I’d photographed the landslide scar was in February 2022. At that time, this new rockslide hadn’t occurred. I also checked Google Earth. The most recent Google Earth imagery of the landslide scar was from April 21, 2023. It didn’t show the rockslide. Then I checked Sentinel 2 satellite imagery, but that wasn’t high enough resolution to determine the date of the rockslide. High resolution imagery of a relatively small, non-urban area would be required, and it would need to have been taken after April 21, 2023.
After failing to find a suitable image using various services that provide free or low cost imagery, I contacted the Vexcel Data Program. They were kind enough to provide an answer — the new rockslide was not in imagery from September 23, 2023, but was present in an image from October 12, 2023.
The new rockslide occurred about 16 months ago, a month or two after Tropical Storm Hilary passed through Southern California. For the 24-hour period ending at noon on August 21, 2023, the weather station at nearby Circle X Ranch recorded about 3.9 inches of rain.
While searching for imagery of the landslide scar, I stumbled onto UCSB Library’s collection of aerial photography. It contains more than 2.5 million images dating back to the 1920s. Curious to see the quality of the photos, I picked a 1:12,000 scale image from November 1936 that was more or less centered on the landslide scar. The quality of the image is excellent — but where was the landslide? I had assumed the Serrano Canyon Landslide to be an ancient feature. How old is it?
Serrano Canyon before the landslide (1947) compared to after (1961). Click!
Continuing down Serrano Canyon, I stopped at Sycamore Canyon to get some water and decide where I was headed next. Option A was to turn south on Sycamore Canyon Road, go up the Fireline Trail to Overlook Fire Road, and then return to Wendy Drive via Hell Hill, Wood Canyon, Two Foxes, Sycamore Canyon, and Upper Sycamore. Including what I’d already done, that would be about 24 miles. Option B was to turn north on Sycamore Canyon Road and go directly to the Two Foxes Trail, etc. That would be about 20 miles.
Mountain lion tracks along Sycamore Canyon Fire Road
Today, I opted for Option B. That turned out to be an exciting choice. Just before the turn onto Wood Canyon, there was a sequence of mountain lion tracks along the east side of Sycamore Canyon Road. To better show its size, I superimposed the track on top of my shoe. The shoe is about 4.5 inches wide at the center of the track. There were also deer tracks along the road.
Here is a high resolution, interactive, 3D terrain view of the Old Boney – Serrano Valley Loop from Wendy Drive. Two options are shown. The map can be zoomed, tilted, rotated, and panned. To change the view, use the control on the upper right side of the screen. Track and placename locations are approximate and subject to errors. Poor weather, and other conditions may make this route unsuitable for this activity.
The Sunday before the start of the Palisades Fire, I ran the Trippet Ranch Loop from the Top of Reseda. Yet another weak cold front had brushed Southern California, producing little precipitation. The weather was nearly perfect for the run — breezy at times, with moderate temperatures and some high clouds.
The NWS Los Angeles/Oxnard office was already expressing concern about a potentially dangerous wind event early in the week. In an Area Forecast Discussion midday Sunday, they warned, “..STRONG AND DAMAGING WINDS AND HIGH FIRE DANGER LIKELY FOR PORTIONS OF VENTURA AND LOS ANGELES COUNTIES…” Of course, few of us could envision the staggering devastation that would ensue in the week ahead.
Sunrise from Fire Road #30, near the beginning of the Trippet Ranch Loop from the Top of Reseda.
The eastern horizon glowed orange as I ran down Fire Road #30 from dirt Mulholland. If I could have seen a few days into the future, the road would have been filled with firefighters and equipment battling to halt the Palisades Fire’s westward progress. The road was empty this morning, save the scurrying towhees and raucous scrub jays.
At the Hub, I stopped to take a photo of Eagle Rock. Bush poppy, a prolific fire follower, covered much of the area between the Hub and Eagle Rock. This burned in the 2021 Palisades Fire. The hazy view extended past Eagle Rock to Calabasas Peak and Boney Mountain.
Downtown Los Angeles from Temescal Peak and the chaparral typical of the area.
Before descending to Trippet Ranch on Eagle Springs Fire Road, I turned east on Temescal Ridge Fire Road. I would return to the Hub, but first, I wanted to visit Temescal Peak and Temescal Lookout. These viewpoints have expansive views of the Santa Monica Mountains and beyond. This photo (from a previous run) is a view of downtown Los Angeles from Temescal Peak. The chaparral in the photo is typical of the vegetation in the Santa Monica Mountains. Most of this would have burned in the 2025 Palisades Fire. On a day with good visibility, San Jacinto Peak can be seen from either viewpoint. Despite some haziness, San Jacinto Peak could still be seen from Temescal Lookout this morning.
Returning to the Hub, I ran down Eagle Springs Fire Road and through the footprint of the 2021 Palisades Fire. The bright yellow flowers of bush poppy shone brightly in the morning sun. When the perimeter of the 2021 fire is overlapped with the 2025 fire, it suggests that bush poppy and other transitional vegetation in the 2021 burn area did not burn as readily in the 2025 fire as the usual chaparral species.
Continuing past the information kiosk at the corner of the parking lot, I headed up the paved road and picked up the Musch Trail. Although we haven’t had much rain this Rain Year, the past two Rain Years were very wet. Paradoxically, the vegetation is bone dry, but some small creeks and springs that haven’t run for years — such as Eagle Springs — still have water. Reflecting last year’s rain, a heavy load of red-orange berries cover most of the toyon bushes along the Musch Trail and throughout the Santa Monica Mountains.
Canyon sunflower along the Garapito Trail
At the top of the Musch Trail, I turned left and worked up Eagle Rock Fire Road, past Eagle Rock, to the top of the Garapito Trail. At times, over the past couple of years, this outstanding trail has been almost impassable. Volunteer trailwork has cleared and repaired the trail multiple times. It’s a good trail for wildflowers, but the lack of rain has reduced the number of early bloomers. Today, canyon sunflower, California everlasting, and California fuchsia were blooming along the trail. This misshapen bush sunflower was blooming along Fire Road #30, near its junction with the Garapito Trail.
The last time Downtown Los Angeles had more than a smattering of rain was mid-April 2024 — more than 250 days ago. To date, the Rain Year beginning July 1, 2024 has been one of the two driest in the 147+ year weather record for Downtown Los Angeles.
Because of the time of year, and lack of rain, not many wildflowers were blooming along Los Angeles area trails at the end of 2024. One exception was this brittlebush (Encelia farinosa) on the southwest corner of Lasky Mesa in Ahmanson Ranch.
If Los Angeles doesn’t see any rain by January 9 — which appears likely — the period July 1, 2024 to January 9, 2025 will be tied with 1962-63 for the driest on record.
Mt. Pacifico (7124′) from low on the Three Points – Mt. Waterman Trail.
I was back on the Three Points – Mt. Waterman Loop and having a better time of it than in June. The June run had been near the Summer Solstice, with in-the-sun temperatures reaching 100°F. Today’s run was a few days away from the Fall Equinox. Not only was the temperature about 10 degrees cooler, the sun was lower in the sky and less intense.
But much was the same as in June. There was still plenty of whitethorn on the first couple of miles of the Three Points – Mt. Waterman Trail — and a few prickly passages for anyone wearing shorts and short sleeves. Some trailwork had been done higher on the mountain, but a few fallen trees were still on the trail. Most of these were easy to step over, around, under, or through.
Late season Bigelow’s sneezeweed at Waterman Meadow.
There was very little monsoon rainfall this Summer, but consecutive wet rainy season and a tropical storm had already recharged the seeps and small creeks. The creeks were only slightly lower than in June, and the places that had been wet and muddy in June were still wet and muddy. At Waterman Meadow, a few late-season blooms of sneezeweed beamed yellow in the midst of the greens of the grass and ferns.
The high point of the Three Points – Mt. Waterman Trail is near the junction with the trail to the summit of Waterman and the trail that comes up from Highway 2. It’s at an elevation of about 7686′. Including detours to get around downed trees, the junction is a bit more than 6 miles from Three Points. The junction marks the start of a nearly 2000′ descent over 4.7 miles to the PCT in Cooper Canyon.
California fuchsia along the Burkhart Trail.
This morning, I encountered no one on the Three Points – Mt. Waterman Trail and only one pair of hikers on the normally busy Mt. Waterman Trail. Buckhorn Campground was nearly empty. I topped off my water at a convenient faucet at the campground and then started down the Burkhart Trail.
The creek in the canyon below the Burkhart Trail happily bubbled and gurgled, its water easily outpacing me as I descended to the PCT. Some work had been done on the trail to help those hiking to Cooper Canyon Falls cross the muddy seeps. Near one seep, a patch of dazzling red California fuchsia contrasted sharply with the coal black of a tree burned in the Bobcat Fire.
Black bear track.
I wouldn’t say the trail has been abandoned, but it’s been quite a while since any trailwork has been done on the PCT between the Burkhart Trail and Cloudburst Summit. A mass of trees is still blocking the trail near the creek crossing at the bottom of Cooper Canyon. As expected following a fire, trees continue to fall on the trail. Parts of the trail along the creek or near seeps are overgrown with “Hey Bear!” willows.
The PCT in Cooper Canyon has been isolated by the 19-year closure to protect the critically endangered mountain yellow-legged frog. In December 2005, Angeles National Forest “temporarily” closed the Williamson Rock climbing area and the PCT between Eagle’s Roost and the Burkhart Trail. This Summer, the Forest Service extended the closure to at least December 31, 2026.
It’s difficult to accept that the Forest Service, conservation groups, and involved agencies have not agreed on a solution. Can’t the short stretch of the PCT that impacts frog habitat be rerouted? Only a few climbs at Williamson Rock directly impact the frog habitat. Does the entire climbing area need to be closed? Can’t bridges, walkways, and other structures be used to protect and even enhance frog habitat? There has to be solution. In 2005, I could not have imagined that 21 years later Williamson Rock would still be closed, and I might not have the opportunity to climb there again.
Goldenrod and California fuchsia along the PCT in Cooper Canyon.
On this run, it wasn’t necessary to stop at Cooper Camp to cool off. Although the temperature was in the 90s on the south-facing slopes traversed by the PCT, there was a bit of a cooling breeze. This and the lower sun angle made it far more pleasant than earlier in the year.
From Cloudburst Summit, it’s a little over five miles of (mostly) downhill to Three Points. Most of the running is on an old road bed. Although it can be tedious — especially when it’s hot — the segment is relatively fast-paced. Depending on the year, there are usually a couple of places to soak a hat and pour water over your head. But, as I learned one hot day, a rattlesnake may take exception to your intrusion!
