The rock formations above are near the top of Saddle Peak, in the Santa Monica Mountains, near Los Angeles. Virtually all have been climbed, and climbers will be seen on Corpse Wall (photo center) most weekends.
I took the photo while doing the Topanga Lookout Ridge Loop. I do the loop clockwise from the trailhead on Stunt Road that’s across from the start of Calabasas Peak Mtwy fire road. The bottom of Topanga Lookout Ridge is about three-quarters of a mile up the fire road.
A use trail ascends the ridge. The easiest route requires a little straightforward scrambling but bypasses the more exposed climbing on the crest of the ridge. There are four or five optional segments where the rocky crest can be followed instead of the use trail.
It had taken me about an hour to reach the benchmark from the Wendy Drive trailhead. It would take another hour to scramble up the ridge to the high point on the crest (unofficially “Boney Point”), and then another hour to work over Tri Peaks to the Backbone Trail and the summit of Sandstone Peak.
La Jolla Valley, Anacapa, and Santa Cruz Island from Boney Mountain
Once again, I got to the summit of Sandstone when no one was on the peak. After recording a video panorama from the summit, I scrambled back down the peak and then headed west on the Backbone Trail to the top of the Chamberlain Trail. Boney Bluff looms above the trail here and marks the beginning of the long descent to the Old Boney Trail.
On the way down Chamberlain, I talked to a hiker that was also doing an adventurous loop from the Wendy Drive Trailhead. At the top of the Chamberlain Trail he was planning to take the Tri Peaks Trail to Tri Peaks, and then work over to “Boney Point.” From there, he was going to descend the Lost Cabin Trail.
Western escarpment of Boney Mountain
At the bottom of the Chamberlain Trail I turned right on the Old Boney Trail and continued down to Blue Canyon. I hadn’t been through Blue Canyon since January and was curious to see how it fared after all the rainy season storms. The canyon is filled with rocky debris from millennia of flash floods. Flooding in the canyon sometimes obliterates sections of the Backbone Trail. Today, it looked like use and trailwork had reestablished washed out sections of the meandering trail.
Ahead, the lights of two runners turned this way and that, and behind me more headlamps danced up the canyon. The moon was high in the sky and nearly full. I took advantage of a smooth stretch of fire road, and turned off my headlamp to enjoy running in the surreal light.
Getting ready to check-in runners at the No Name 50K/15K
I was in Cheeseboro Canyon and a mile or so into the 2024 No Name 50K. Along with several other runners, I had opted for the early start. Partly because there’s something special about running in the hours before dawn, but also because strong Santa Ana winds were forecast, and I wasn’t sure how hot and windy it was going to get. So far, so good. The only wind was a sometimes cool, sometimes warm, down-canyon breeze.
Usually, when I run Cheeseboro Canyon, it’s from the Victory Trailhead at Ahmanson, and I run down the canyon. It was good to be running up the canyon for a change. The Cheeseboro Canyon Trail is a combination of fire road and single track that gains about 500′ over the 4+ miles to the Sheep Corral Trail junction. There are several very short, steep, rocky sections, but most of the trail is straightforward and enjoyable. Because of all the rain the past two years, the trail near Sulfur Springs was a bit muddy. Running by headlamp, I managed to step in the muckiest of the mud.
Dawn from the Sheep Corral Trail.
From the top of Cheeseboro, it’s about a mile over to Palo Comado Fire Road on a well-used, up-and-down single track. Just before Palo Camado, I stopped at an overlook to take in the view to the east. San Gabriel Peak and Mt. Wilson were silhouetted in the distance, and a few orange-red clouds preceded the sun.
Once on Palo Comado Fire Road, it took about 15 minutes to get up to China Flat. The timing was perfect — the warm light of the new sun highlighting Simi Peak and the greens and golds of the oak grasslands.
Downhill on Albertson Fire Road to Lang Ranch.
The aid station at Albertson Mtwy Fire Road marked the beginning of a 3-mile downhill to Lang Ranch. I put out of mind that we would be coming back up this hill and just enjoyed the descent.
Following a quick stop at the Lang Ranch aid station, I retraced my steps on Albertson Fire Road back to the Alapay/Lang Ranch Ridge Trail and the start of a scenic 3.5-mile keyhole loop. This memorable segment sets the tone from the start, gaining about 500′ in a mile. The route is a variation of the popular “Lang Ranch Loop,” and the support from the hikers on the trail was much appreciated. So was the encouragement from the awesome group of local runners (in the title photo) — each of the three times I passed them. I still hear their cowbell!
After returning to the Lang Ranch Aid Station, I started up Albertson Fire Road a second time. The volunteer at the Alapay/Lang Ranch Ridge Trail checked my bib number, and I began the long climb back to China Flat.
China Flat and Simi Peak from Albertson Mtwy Fire Road. From a training run.
After doing the steep climbs on the Lang Ranch loop, the grade on Albertson didn’t seem so bad. Plus, the weather was cooperating. We were on the second day of a Santa Ana wind event, and I had envisioned running into a 20 mph headwind here. Other than a couple strong gusts, the wind was more of a cooling breeze.
The runner passing me confirmed that the Albertson climb was made for poles — if only I had them. I’d done Albertson on a training run and debated using them for the race. Poles are helpful in a lot of ways, but more efficient uphill propulsion is probably the most important.
After a false summit or two, I eventually reached the aid station at the top of the climb. The smiling volunteers asked me if I needed anything. I told them I was good to go and continued down into China Flat. I could relax for a while. It would be mostly downhill until the aid station in Palo Comado Canyon — about 3.5 miles away.
Palo Comado Canyon Trail/Fire Road below China Flat. From a training run.
Running down Palo Comado from China Flat was a bit like the run down Albertson, except it was 20 degrees warmer. With the low humidity, I reminded myself to stay hydrated and not pound the downhill. The Cheeseboro Ridge section of the course was a few miles ahead, and the last thing I needed was crampy legs.
At the Palo Comado aid station, I grabbed a peanut butter sandwich and headed up the hill. Like the climbs at Lang Ranch, the hill was steep but relatively short. As I started the descent into Cheeseboro Canyon, I looked across to the power lines on Cheeseboro Ridge. There were runners over there, and I wondered how they were doing. I would find out soon enough.
At the Cheeseboro aid station, I filled my Camelbak to the brim, put some chips in a baggie to eat on the run, and started up the fire road toward Cheeseboro Ridge.
The Cheeseboro Ridge segment of the course follows an SCE powerline service road for about three miles, gaining more than 700′ along the way. On a hot day, it can be very hot, and on a windy day, very windy. There is zero shade. The Cheeseboro Remote Weather Station is passed about a mile up the service road.
Superb running in Cheeseboro Canyon.
Keeping in mind that the station measures the temperature inside a white, ventilated instrument housing several feet off the ground, the Cheeseboro RAWS midday temp was around 78degF and the wind was 16 mph out of the ENE, gusting to 29 mph. On the fire road, the in-the-sun temp was at least in the mid-80s but didn’t feel too bad.
I was glad to get to the high point of the ridge at the rocky overlook. There were still a couple of small hills to go, but from the viewpoint, it was going to be mostly downhill to the finish.
Many thanks to SoCal Trail, the volunteers, photographers, runners, and everyone involved for a great race!
Mt. Pacifico (7124′) from low on the Three Points – Mt. Waterman Trail.
I was back on the Three Points – Mt. Waterman Loop and having a better time of it than in June. The June run had been near the Summer Solstice, with in-the-sun temperatures reaching 100°F. Today’s run was a few days away from the Fall Equinox. Not only was the temperature about 10 degrees cooler, the sun was lower in the sky and less intense.
But much was the same as in June. There was still plenty of whitethorn on the first couple of miles of the Three Points – Mt. Waterman Trail — and a few prickly passages for anyone wearing shorts and short sleeves. Some trailwork had been done higher on the mountain, but a few fallen trees were still on the trail. Most of these were easy to step over, around, under, or through.
Late season Bigelow’s sneezeweed at Waterman Meadow.
There was very little monsoon rainfall this Summer, but consecutive wet rainy season and a tropical storm had already recharged the seeps and small creeks. The creeks were only slightly lower than in June, and the places that had been wet and muddy in June were still wet and muddy. At Waterman Meadow, a few late-season blooms of sneezeweed beamed yellow in the midst of the greens of the grass and ferns.
The high point of the Three Points – Mt. Waterman Trail is near the junction with the trail to the summit of Waterman and the trail that comes up from Highway 2. It’s at an elevation of about 7686′. Including detours to get around downed trees, the junction is a bit more than 6 miles from Three Points. The junction marks the start of a nearly 2000′ descent over 4.7 miles to the PCT in Cooper Canyon.
California fuchsia along the Burkhart Trail.
This morning, I encountered no one on the Three Points – Mt. Waterman Trail and only one pair of hikers on the normally busy Mt. Waterman Trail. Buckhorn Campground was nearly empty. I topped off my water at a convenient faucet at the campground and then started down the Burkhart Trail.
The creek in the canyon below the Burkhart Trail happily bubbled and gurgled, its water easily outpacing me as I descended to the PCT. Some work had been done on the trail to help those hiking to Cooper Canyon Falls cross the muddy seeps. Near one seep, a patch of dazzling red California fuchsia contrasted sharply with the coal black of a tree burned in the Bobcat Fire.
Black bear track.
I wouldn’t say the trail has been abandoned, but it’s been quite a while since any trailwork has been done on the PCT between the Burkhart Trail and Cloudburst Summit. A mass of trees is still blocking the trail near the creek crossing at the bottom of Cooper Canyon. As expected following a fire, trees continue to fall on the trail. Parts of the trail along the creek or near seeps are overgrown with “Hey Bear!” willows.
The PCT in Cooper Canyon has been isolated by the 19-year closure to protect the critically endangered mountain yellow-legged frog. In December 2005, Angeles National Forest “temporarily” closed the Williamson Rock climbing area and the PCT between Eagle’s Roost and the Burkhart Trail. This Summer, the Forest Service extended the closure to at least December 31, 2026.
It’s difficult to accept that the Forest Service, conservation groups, and involved agencies have not agreed on a solution. Can’t the short stretch of the PCT that impacts frog habitat be rerouted? Only a few climbs at Williamson Rock directly impact the frog habitat. Does the entire climbing area need to be closed? Can’t bridges, walkways, and other structures be used to protect and even enhance frog habitat? There has to be solution. In 2005, I could not have imagined that 21 years later Williamson Rock would still be closed, and I might not have the opportunity to climb there again.
Goldenrod and California fuchsia along the PCT in Cooper Canyon.
On this run, it wasn’t necessary to stop at Cooper Camp to cool off. Although the temperature was in the 90s on the south-facing slopes traversed by the PCT, there was a bit of a cooling breeze. This and the lower sun angle made it far more pleasant than earlier in the year.
From Cloudburst Summit, it’s a little over five miles of (mostly) downhill to Three Points. Most of the running is on an old road bed. Although it can be tedious — especially when it’s hot — the segment is relatively fast-paced. Depending on the year, there are usually a couple of places to soak a hat and pour water over your head. But, as I learned one hot day, a rattlesnake may take exception to your intrusion!
It was a sobering sight. I had stopped at a point on Mt. Waterman burned by the Station Fire in 2009 and the Bobcat Fire in 2020.
To the east, smoke from the Bridge Fire filled the canyons and clung to the ridges between Mt. Baldy and the East Fork San Gabriel River. A group of skeletal Jeffrey pines, once full and green, stood starkly in the foreground.
Another devastating fire had stormed through the San Gabriel Mountains, destroying homes and ravaging the forest and all that lives within. Not far away, the Line and Airport Fires were also burning, the extent of the three fires totaling over 117,500 acres.
Conventional methods of land and fire management usually do not prevent the rapid spread of a fire when forest or weather conditions are extreme — and extreme conditions are now the norm.
Incremental changes to long-established policies will not be enough to prevent runaway wildfires. Novel approaches must be considered, researched and evaluated. New tools and technology, including AI, need to be more widely applied. The hesitancy to spend money proactively must be overcome.
Today, it is difficult to do a hike or run of more than a few miles in the foothills or mountains of Southern California without passing through an area that has been burned in the past 25 years. In 50, 100, or 200 years what will the outdoor experience be? Will conifers only exist in widely scattered stands? Will the ecology be forever compromised?
Every effort must be made to mitigate the impacts of runaway wildfires and preserve the nature and ecology of our open space areas and wildlands.
Above are thumbnails of a few photos from the 16-mile out-and-back trail run to Mt. Baden-Powell from the Islip Saddle Trailhead. Click on an image for a larger photo and more information.
Almost two months had passed since I’d been on the PCT between Islip Saddle and Mt. Baden-Powell. Not a lot changed in the routine of the city in those seven weeks. The street sweeper still came by on Wednesday mornings, the trash was picked up each Friday, and the neighborhood looked pretty much the same as it did at the end of June.
Angeles Crest Highway was still closed between Islip Saddle and Vincent Gap. Gone was the noise of vehicles on the road below, replaced by the sound of the wind in the trees and the occasional outburst of a Clark’s nutcracker.
At the saddle near Mt. Hawkins, I stopped to photograph the stump of the Mt. Hawkins lightning tree. Perhaps weakened by one or more lightning strikes, this Jeffrey pine lost its crown during the Winter of 2019-2020. Now without bark, it’s easy to see that lightning followed the spiral grain of the tree. This tree has a right-hand spiral grain. When viewed from above, it is twisted counterclockwise.
It was windy and cool at higher elevation. The National Weather Service’s Wind Chill Temperature formula doesn’t apply to temperatures over 50°F, but with bare arms and legs, it can be surprisingly chilly when there is a strong wind and the temperature is in the 60s. Had I not been pushing the pace, I would have needed to pull the sleeves and shell from my pack.
Here is an interactive, high resolution, 3D terrain view of the out and back from Islip Saddle to Mt. Baden-Powell. An alternative start at the Windy Gap Trailhead in the Crystal Lake Recreation Area is also shown. Starting at this trailhead adds about 800′ of elevation gain. The map can be zoomed, tilted, rotated, and panned using the navigation control on the right. Track and placename locations are approximate and subject to errors. Poor weather and other conditions may make this route unsuitable for this activity.
Above are thumbnails of a few photos from the 16-mile out-and-back trail run to Mt. Baden-Powell from the Islip Saddle Trailhead. Click on an image for a larger photo and more information.